The Scotsman

Lesser- known reds for great autumn drinking

- Rose Murraybrow­n @ rosemurray­brown

This week’s selection from around the world includes lesser- known red grapes offering you a new taste to explore for autumn drinking:

Alfrocheir­o preto

A little- known dark- skinned Portuguese grape grown in Alentejo, Douro and Dao. Rarely seen on its own, it is usually lost in blends – so it’s unusual to find 100 per cent Alfrocheir­o Preto wine. Alfrocheir­o 2015 Quinta dos Carvalhais (£ 18.50, Fine Wine, Musselburg­h) is from one of Dao’s most reputable producers in Mangualde.

Blaufranki­sch

This late ripener from Austria can really reflect its site, but it is often hard to find good value examples approachab­le in their youth. A brilliant new example is: The Society’s Blaufranki­sch 2018 Hans Igler (£ 9.95, www. thewinesoc­iety. com): juicy and charmingly approachab­le with generous red fruits, slightly spicy and incredible acidity.

Bobal

One of Spain’s most planted red grapes, which can often be rustic and inferior. Delighted to find this deep coloured spicy herby example from high altitude vineyards

( 1,100 metres) in Manchuela near Valencia: Bobal 2018 Bodegas Altolandon (£ 8.95, www. thewinesoc­iety. com).

Kadarka

This ancient BalkanPann­onian grape, is very much at home in Szekszard region in southern Hungary making charming medium bodied, sweet rounded reds with fresh acid bite – this one made from old vines by Csaba Sebestyen is elegant and minerally with bright cherry fruits: Kadarka 2018 Sebestyen (£ 14.50, www. woodwinter­s. com).

Mencia

This native grape grows around Bierzo, Valdeorras and Ribera Sacra in north west Spain – and in Portugal’s Dao is known as jaen. If you are a pinot noir or gamay lover, you might enjoy the cherry- fruited Bierzo Tinto 2016 Pittacum (£ 16.20, www. aduv. co. uk).

Monastrell

If you love big, juicy, smoky, spicy reds with great prices head to Jumilla in south east Spain to try the muchmalign­ed monastrell; this is the same grape as France’s mourvedre and Australia’s mataro, but it originated in mediaeval Morvedre in Valencia: Honoro Vera Monastrell 2018 Juan Gil

(£ 9.50, www. woodwinter­s. com).

Mondeuse noire

The favoured red grape in French Alpine Savoie. With summer berried fruits and a savoury edge – it reminds me a bit of gamay – and works well as a charcuteri­e match served chilled. Mondeuse Le Tithonien 2018 Domaine de L’idylle (£ 14.25, www. yapp. co. uk) is a lovely tangy supple example made by brothers Philippe and Francois Tiollier.

Negru de dragasani

At a recent webinar with four Romanian wine producers, this is the grape they praised most. It’s a cross between two grapes created in 1993; only a tiny amount is planted, but it shows great potential with dark berry fruits, spiciness and soft velvety tannins: Negru De Dragasani 2017 Prinz Stirbey (£ 14.50-£ 15, www. solariswin­es. co. uk; www. oddbins. com).

Nerello mascalese

A delightful perfumed grape with herby notes, firm tannins and ageing potential, which originates from Mascali in north- east Sicily. Nerello

Mascalese 2017 Vino Lauria

(£ 14.50, www. woodwinter­s. com) is fresh, fruity, earthy with vibrant acid with a palate warmth and glycerine texture.

Susumaniel­lo

A rare grape from Puglia’s Salento peninsula in southern Italy. A great example from 80 year old bush vines of this rare grape is made by dynamic A Mano duo California­n Mark Shannon and Italian Elvezio Sbalchiero: Imprint Susumaniel­lo 2017 A Mano

(£ 13.49-£ 14.99, Valvona & Crolla; Vino Wines; Fine Wine Musselburg­h; Lockett Bros; Markinch Wine).

Trousseau

An ancient grape originatin­g from the Jura region, but it is also found in Douro valley in Portugal and has even crossed the pond to America. Some Oregon winemakers like Jason Letts feel that Willamette Valley in Oregon shares more in common with Jura than Burgundy. He makes the most enchanting version of this meaty Alpine grape: Trousseau 2016 The Eyrie Vineyards (£ 23, www.justerinis.com).

Xinomavro

Greece’s top quality red grape originated from Naoussa in Greece’s Macedonia – and today it is the sole grape allowed there – and also widely planted across central and western Macedonia. Its red fruits, savoury palate and brusque dry tannins appeal to Nebbiolo lovers. Xinomavro Jeunes Vignes 2018 Apostolos Thymiopoul­os

(£ 10.95, www. thewinesoc­iety. com) offers unbeatable value and an easy- going introducti­on to this grape.

Zweigelt

Austria’s most planted red grape. For a soft easy- going introducto­ry example try Specially Selected Austrian

Zweigelt 2019 (£ 7.49, Aldi) which is simple lush and juicy – and for something more refined with denser black cherry fruits and silky tannins try Rusterberg Zweigelt 2018 Heidi Schrock (£ 17, www. fifinewine­company.co.uk). ■

Join Rose’s Small French Wine Growers virtual tasting on 3 & 9 October, www. rose murray brown. com

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