Lesser- known reds for great autumn drinking
This week’s selection from around the world includes lesser- known red grapes offering you a new taste to explore for autumn drinking:
Alfrocheiro preto
A little- known dark- skinned Portuguese grape grown in Alentejo, Douro and Dao. Rarely seen on its own, it is usually lost in blends – so it’s unusual to find 100 per cent Alfrocheiro Preto wine. Alfrocheiro 2015 Quinta dos Carvalhais (£ 18.50, Fine Wine, Musselburgh) is from one of Dao’s most reputable producers in Mangualde.
Blaufrankisch
This late ripener from Austria can really reflect its site, but it is often hard to find good value examples approachable in their youth. A brilliant new example is: The Society’s Blaufrankisch 2018 Hans Igler (£ 9.95, www. thewinesociety. com): juicy and charmingly approachable with generous red fruits, slightly spicy and incredible acidity.
Bobal
One of Spain’s most planted red grapes, which can often be rustic and inferior. Delighted to find this deep coloured spicy herby example from high altitude vineyards
( 1,100 metres) in Manchuela near Valencia: Bobal 2018 Bodegas Altolandon (£ 8.95, www. thewinesociety. com).
Kadarka
This ancient BalkanPannonian grape, is very much at home in Szekszard region in southern Hungary making charming medium bodied, sweet rounded reds with fresh acid bite – this one made from old vines by Csaba Sebestyen is elegant and minerally with bright cherry fruits: Kadarka 2018 Sebestyen (£ 14.50, www. woodwinters. com).
Mencia
This native grape grows around Bierzo, Valdeorras and Ribera Sacra in north west Spain – and in Portugal’s Dao is known as jaen. If you are a pinot noir or gamay lover, you might enjoy the cherry- fruited Bierzo Tinto 2016 Pittacum (£ 16.20, www. aduv. co. uk).
Monastrell
If you love big, juicy, smoky, spicy reds with great prices head to Jumilla in south east Spain to try the muchmaligned monastrell; this is the same grape as France’s mourvedre and Australia’s mataro, but it originated in mediaeval Morvedre in Valencia: Honoro Vera Monastrell 2018 Juan Gil
(£ 9.50, www. woodwinters. com).
Mondeuse noire
The favoured red grape in French Alpine Savoie. With summer berried fruits and a savoury edge – it reminds me a bit of gamay – and works well as a charcuterie match served chilled. Mondeuse Le Tithonien 2018 Domaine de L’idylle (£ 14.25, www. yapp. co. uk) is a lovely tangy supple example made by brothers Philippe and Francois Tiollier.
Negru de dragasani
At a recent webinar with four Romanian wine producers, this is the grape they praised most. It’s a cross between two grapes created in 1993; only a tiny amount is planted, but it shows great potential with dark berry fruits, spiciness and soft velvety tannins: Negru De Dragasani 2017 Prinz Stirbey (£ 14.50-£ 15, www. solariswines. co. uk; www. oddbins. com).
Nerello mascalese
A delightful perfumed grape with herby notes, firm tannins and ageing potential, which originates from Mascali in north- east Sicily. Nerello
Mascalese 2017 Vino Lauria
(£ 14.50, www. woodwinters. com) is fresh, fruity, earthy with vibrant acid with a palate warmth and glycerine texture.
Susumaniello
A rare grape from Puglia’s Salento peninsula in southern Italy. A great example from 80 year old bush vines of this rare grape is made by dynamic A Mano duo Californian Mark Shannon and Italian Elvezio Sbalchiero: Imprint Susumaniello 2017 A Mano
(£ 13.49-£ 14.99, Valvona & Crolla; Vino Wines; Fine Wine Musselburgh; Lockett Bros; Markinch Wine).
Trousseau
An ancient grape originating from the Jura region, but it is also found in Douro valley in Portugal and has even crossed the pond to America. Some Oregon winemakers like Jason Letts feel that Willamette Valley in Oregon shares more in common with Jura than Burgundy. He makes the most enchanting version of this meaty Alpine grape: Trousseau 2016 The Eyrie Vineyards (£ 23, www.justerinis.com).
Xinomavro
Greece’s top quality red grape originated from Naoussa in Greece’s Macedonia – and today it is the sole grape allowed there – and also widely planted across central and western Macedonia. Its red fruits, savoury palate and brusque dry tannins appeal to Nebbiolo lovers. Xinomavro Jeunes Vignes 2018 Apostolos Thymiopoulos
(£ 10.95, www. thewinesociety. com) offers unbeatable value and an easy- going introduction to this grape.
Zweigelt
Austria’s most planted red grape. For a soft easy- going introductory example try Specially Selected Austrian
Zweigelt 2019 (£ 7.49, Aldi) which is simple lush and juicy – and for something more refined with denser black cherry fruits and silky tannins try Rusterberg Zweigelt 2018 Heidi Schrock (£ 17, www. fifinewinecompany.co.uk). ■
Join Rose’s Small French Wine Growers virtual tasting on 3 & 9 October, www. rose murray brown. com