Chill out in Nevada
From the ghosts of old mining towns to vineyards and jet packs, life in the desert is anything but dry
SIPPING on my glass of Chardonnay and enjoying its honeysuckle flavours and apricot overtones, I could have been wine tasting in the South of France or on the coast of Italy. Indeed, there was a peculiarly European feel to the evening as the sun set over the distant mountains and the evening glow caught on the grape vines. But I was far from the Continent. In fact, I was in the US State of Nevada, sitting right in the heart of the Mojave Desert.
One would be forgiven for not associating the western state with such tranquillity. For it is home to Las Vegas, known for reckless gambling, partying and impromptu weddings. Unsurprisingly, it is the primary reason tourists from across the globe visit Nevada.
But, as I soon discovered, it has a lot more to offer. Just an hour west of the city’s infamous Strip are two award-winning vineyards that could lure even the biggest gamblers away from the slots for an afternoon.
I was surprised to find wineries in the desert – who knew grapes could grow in such heat? But they do. And the secret? They sit in a valley above an aquifer.
Sanders Family Winery, near the town of Pahrump, looks upon the colourful Nopah Range, which defines the state’s border with California. Guests can walk around the small estate, lined with tall Italian cypress trees, while sipping award-winning wines. The owners are keen to educate visitors on how their wines are made – from the type of barrels used to the variety of grapes they grow. And we keenly lapped up the knowledge, for the wines were far from ordinary; the gold medal Zinfandel was so deliciously rich it was like sipping on a handful of fresh berries.
The neighbouring Pahrump Valley Winery was equally delightful. There, grape stomping is on offer every October and traditional, wholesome meals are served in a quaint conservatory under the desert sun. With stunning 12,000ft Mount Charleston as the backdrop, we were treated to a mouthwatering threecourse meal, washed down with wines made from grapes handpicked from the fiveacre vineyard. For those seeking adrenaline-fuelled activities, the Spring Mountain Motorsports Resort and Country Club – only 55 miles from Las Vegas – boasts a six-mile motor racing track and a five-acre freshwater lake, making it the perfect spot to try new outdoor sports. And rattling my nerves far more than a game of blackjack ever could, I attempted jet-packing, where I was able to fly 15ft above water using a jet-powered backpack. Gliding above the crystalblue lake was like being in a dream, although the subsequent fall each time was a bit painful – to the body and the ego. So the next stop, which was more art and less thrill, was a welcome change.
The International Car Forest of the Last Church is an art exhibition in Goldfield where around 40 cars, trucks and vans stand balancing delicately on their ends in the desert.
All are painted with their own unique colourful images – from skulls to caricatures of politicians – making the installation quite a sight to behold.
We spent more than an hour climbing in and out of the vehicles and trying to make sense of the peculiar display.
We then continued on to Tonopah, an old silver mining and ranching town located halfway between Las Vegas and Reno. Home to around 3,000 people, it is believed to be haunted, and for those who are brave enough to stop for a bite to eat, fantastic, traditional American beer and food are on offer at the Tonopah Brewing Company.
As well as its slow-smoked barbecue of brisket and sticky ribs, there is also cold, refreshing beers brewed on-site to set travellers up for the next leg of their journey.
The truly fearless can enjoy and overnight stay at The Mizpah Hotel,
which is said to be haunted by the Lady in Red – the ghost of a prostitute who was beaten and murdered there by her jealous ex-lover.
NEXT up was Virginia City, and on entering the small settlement, which sits upon a Peak in the Virginia Range, it felt as though we had gone back in time.
In the late 1800s the discovery of the Comstock Lode – the first major find of silver ore in the United States – made this small mining town a booming metropolis. In fact the riches from the small place built the city of San Francisco we know today. Visitors can still walk along the authentic wooden boardwalks and visit the accurately restored schools and churches.
It was easy to imagine the city during its time of opulence, when women dripped with jewels and men splashed their new-found cash on girls, gambling and drink.
But it was the old-West saloons (bars) that were the most enrapturing, and we stopped off in several to try some old-fashioned American liquor. My favourite was the Bucket of Blood Saloon, which, draped in hanging lamps and mirrors, was given its name because it was once so notorious for fighting that each evening a bucketful of blood would be mopped from the bar floor.
More of Nevada’s rich history was unearthed at our final destination – Reno City, dubbed ‘the biggest little city’ in the world. It is best known for gambling and the nearby ski resorts, but having a taste for more history, I instead visited the renowned National Automobile Museum.
Its vintage, classic and special interest automobiles, included the 1912 Rambler 73-4CC Cross Country which featured in the film Titanic. Here you can view the car collection of the late Bill Harrah – founder of the hotel and casino that bears his name – one of the most impressive on earth.
Even for a non-enthusiast it was extraordinary.
Finishing my trip with this 200-piece collection – after having discovered the surprisingly serene and richly historical sides of the state – I knew I had played my cards right.
For even though I never placed a single bet, I felt like I had won the lottery in Nevada.