La Rochelle
La RocheLLe in France boasts a proud maritime tradition, but it is also now a gastronomic hub and an environmental pioneer, as GARETH HUW DAVIES finds…
1. TOWERS OF STRENGTH
A TRICOLOUR flutters over the formidable St Nicolas Tower at the old harbour’s entrance. Built in 1345, it used to share defensive duties with the slightly smaller Tower of the Chain. Tour de la Lanterne, the third tower, is the Atlantic coast’s only surviving medieval lighthouse – its walls still bear graffiti from captured English seamen. The image of these monster structures defines La Rochelle as strongly as the Eiffel Tower proclaims Paris. A joint ticket allows entry into all three buildings.
2. ALL TIED UP
INSPECTOR Maigret creator Georges Simenon lived in the area, and in the 1930s he would ride into town and take refreshment at the Cafe de la Paix. The metal ring to which he tied his horse survives on the wall outside the immaculately restored cafe. Another favourite atmospheric bar is the dimly lit Cave La Guignette.
3. LIFE ON THE WAVES
ONE of La Rochelle’s unofficial names is ‘Daughter of the Sea’. They celebrate many centuries of voyaging, fishing and trading over the world’s oceans in the Maritime Museum, which opened in 2015. The story is told in a series of shellshaped pavilions. The visit ends on a real vessel, the France 1, the nation’s weather ship. An onboard exhibition celebrates Bernard Moitessier, who was heading for victory in the first non-stop single-handed round-the-world race in 196869 but blew the prize by carrying on to Tahiti to ‘save his soul’. The other magnificent marine feature is the Aquarium, where I enjoyed three courses of excellent cooking.
4. GOING GREEN
IS LA ROCHELLE France’s greenest city? In 2015 they tested a driver-less electric bus. Guided by sensors, it jinked around the harbourside, niftily avoiding obstacles and people. France’s first pedestrianised streets were here, along with the original public bicycle hiring scheme. The eyecatching yellow cycles are available at the Tourist Information Office. You need to register, then the first two hours are free. And do try the little electric ferry, shuttling across the Old Port.
5. MARKET CHOICES
THIS city means serious gastronomical business. Its main market is open every morning, selling ingredients to make a MasterChef contestant drool. There’s the nuttytasting butter of Surgeres in the local Charente region, red eggs from Marans, and tourteau de charente, a cheesecake burned black on the top. At the harbour I found mounds of oysters, mussels and prawns.
6. HISTORIC HEART
OLD La Rochelle grew rich on international trade and merchants left a handsome legacy, including 16th and 17th Century houses, built around restful courtyards. One of the best is in the Cloister of the White Ladies, now government offices. Think Versailles, only smaller, and painted in ochre to give it an Italian look. Rue Nicholas Venette is so picturesque that it has two stars in the coveted Michelin Guide.