REAL RAGU

It may take more ef­fort than a sta­ple spag bol, but this slow­cooked brisket is well worth it

The Simple Things - - FRESH | NOVEMBER THINGS -

Serves 4

1kg rolled beef brisket 2 tbsp olive oil 50g un­salted but­ter 200g smoked pancetta, finely chopped 1 onion, finely chopped 2 car­rots, finely chopped 2 cel­ery sticks, finely chopped 3 tbsp tomato purée 1 tbsp mixed spice 500ml red wine 500ml milk 2 dried bay leaves 2 sprigs rose­mary to serve 500g dried tagli­atelle 75ml ex­tra vir­gin olive oil Small hand­ful pars­ley, roughly chopped 100g parme­san, finely grated

1 Pre­heat oven to 200C/Fan 180C/400F. Put the brisket into a small roast­ing dish and roast for an hour. Re­move and al­low the brisket to cool. Cut into small chunks.

2 Mean­while heat the oil and but­ter in a large saucepan or casse­role over a medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stir­ring oc­ca­sion­ally, un­til the fat ren­ders down and the pancetta is slightly crispy. Add the onion, car­rots and cel­ery, stir to coat, then cook very slowly un­til soft – a good 20 mins at least, stir­ring every so of­ten.

3 Once the veg are soft, in­crease the heat to high and stir in the tomato purée and mixed spice just for a minute or two, then add the wine, milk and herbs. Add the chopped brisket, bring to the boil, then re­duce to a very low sim­mer and cook, par­tially cov­ered with a lid, for 3 hours. Give the pan a stir every so of­ten to en­sure the bot­tom isn’t catch­ing.

4 When the ragu is ready – it will be thick and the meat will be oh so ten­der – sea­son to taste. Cook the pasta in salted wa­ter. Re­serve 100ml of the pasta cook­ing wa­ter, then drain. Add the pasta to the ragu pan along with the re­served wa­ter, olive oil and pars­ley. Stir well to mix. Serve with a scat­ter­ing of parme­san.

Recipe from Com­fort by John Whaite (Kyle Books). Pho­tog­ra­phy: Nas­sima Rothacker

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