In a green and pleasant land
Whatever the weather, Alnwick Garden in Northumberland is blooming great
IT came into being more than 250 years ago.
Back then, it was legendary designer Capability Brown whose wisdom transformed the landscape.
But the 20th Century, in particular, wasn’t kind to Alnwick Garden.
Digging for Victory in wartime and then austerity afterwards led to the final closure.
But exactly 20 years ago the Duchess of Northumberland decided enough was enough.
She started the process of building the country’s most ambitious new garden for decades at a cost of more than £40m.
So, it’s a bit of a milestone year for what has become one of Northumberland’s biggest tourist attractions, and we’ve come for a look to see how it shaped up.
Even on a pretty wild and windy day early in the year, the magnificent cascade is a watery marvel and we know from previous visits that the Poison Garden is chillingly fascinating.
In fact, with 4000 plant species, there is something different to see every time you come, witnessing the changing seasons in all their glory.
We spend ages wandering round before settling down with a warming coffee at the adjacent café.
The Castle opens for business again on Friday and Harry Potter lovers, as well as history buffs, will come to see its filmic and ancient wonders.
We notice that it continues to move with the times and now stages major concerts too, such as Jess Glynne this August.
It’s a mere five-minute stroll from the historic centre of the old market town.
Although, as we step through the impressive Bondgate Tower, we’re pretty sure that in olden times there wouldn’t have been SIX bank and building society branches all side by side!
Just along the road is Barter Books in the old Victorian railway station.
We’ve been so often we’ve got an account from books previously swapped and with a cuppa in the old waiting room it’s comfortingly reassuring and familiar. So, too, we think, is nearby Alnmouth as we drive into the pretty little main street.
Or rather we don’t. It’s only a few months since we last visited but it’s turned into a one-way system.
And we are pointed down by the nine-hole golf course, the oldest in England. Handily, that’s the best place to park for a walk along the beach, surely one of the widest and best anywhere in the country.
It’s blustery, though, with white-capped waves crashing in, so The Red Lion back up on the main street is the best place for a refreshment and some great food.
We see there’s new accommodation being added, but thankfully the beer garden with its raised terrace – the best pace for a view over the estuary – remains.
We’re staying a little further up the coast in Seahouses, the old fishing harbour where you can catch a boat out to the Farne Islands.
It too is reassuringly unchanged, but there’s a new twist here too.
Our accommodation, the Bamburgh Castle Inn directly on the harbour, now has a tie-up with the Ocean Club.
The health complex across the road gives guests free use of the facilities.
So, a leisurely couple of hours in the sauna, jacuzzi, steam room and pool is the best relaxation after the day’s endeavours.
But many other things are gloriously unchanged. And the Olde Ship Inn just next to our hotel is one of them.
It’s been quenching the thirst of sailors – and everyone else besides – since 1812. As we step in through the swing door it’s exactly as it’s always been.
A roaring fire at the end, every inch of the wood-panelled walls covered with clocks and lamps and ships wheels and maritime plaques.
And, of course, illustrations of Grace Darling’s amazing rescue from the Farne Islands which are clearly visible just out the window.
Her chunky old boat, by the way, can be seen a couple of miles along the coast at the RNLI museum in nearby Bamburgh.
Hanging from the ceiling in the Ship are nets and models, tankards and barrels. The comfy red benches are filled as always – we’ve never seen this place quiet, and that’s hardly a surprise.
It’s the most warmly welcoming boozer you could wish for.
And thinking back to the Gardens it’s also indicative of this part of the country – blooming marvellous.