Not just fair-weather friends – these rosés should be enjoyed come rain or shine
When I ordered a glass of rosé in a pub recently, the owner remarked that I was ‘just in time’. Her rosés were about to disappear – delisted until well into the spring.
A few years ago, this would have been no surprise; rosé was every bit as spring/ summer-seasonal as flip-flops. But now? Don’t we expect to be able to drink pink throughout the year?
Rosé’s image has changed dramatically all round. It’s hardly ever flat and dull, as it often used to be (modern winemakers take more pride in their pinks), and it’s just as likely to be bone-dry and tangy as it is medium-sweet and bubblegummy, so you can take your pick.
Today, everyone seems to love it, even (gulp) men. It is also more likely to be matched with food, and that’s why I have learnt to love rosé in the colder months. Pair it cleverly and it deserves a place at the table any time. Take charcuterie. Ham/ jamón, peppery salami, spicy chorizo and smoked duck all work with a fruity rosé, especially a dry, bright Spanish rosado (see below).
Prawns, stir-fried, or as the base for risotto or paella, are perfect with pink. As is whitebait or other small fish, fried – the wine cutting through crisply. Rosé is great with freshwater fish, especially trout, and it stars with salty dips like tapenade and anchois. Try it too with softly spiced vegetable or tomato couscous. Here are three that won’t be going into hibernation.