The stretch along Scarborough Beach road at Mount Hawthorn is one of the homeliest high streets in Perth. The Paddington Ale House is a fantastic place to watch the footie, cricket or rugby while trying out some of their 141 international beers, or pick up a bottle of wine from their next-door off-licence. Shops and bars stay open late on Wednesdays, and the Diabolik bookshop (which also stocks a wide range of vinyls) is the kind of place you can lose an entire afternoon.
Mount Lawley, where the current spirit of regeneration began, a decade ago. Ryan Zaknich’s job in town-planning left him with a knowledgeedge of Perth’sPerth s suburbs and he now helps to introduce locals to their eir own city via his walking ing company Two Feet and Heartbeat (twofeet.com.au).
“When this area was built they wanted to name it after the late governor of WA, Sir Arthur Lawley, so they asked his widow. . She agreed, on the promise se that you wouldn’t be able to buy alcohol there. They said ‘no worries’ – and as soon as she’d cut the ribbon, in came the pubs.” Gambling and prostitution
were the main entertainments here for most of the 20th century – now it’s a stretch famed for its Mexican food (courtesy of El Publico,Publ where you can snack on pigs’pig skin and bowls of crickets).cricke WestW of Beaufort StreetS is a part of the cityc that Zaknich would love more visitors to discover: HydeH Park, a green space with a melancholy history. ManyMan Nyungar people, who livedl on the land 40,000 years before the arrival of theth Dutch, French and British, were once forbidden to walk through the city after 6pm. They used to make camp and fish for turtles in the lake here. These days you can spot WA’s famous black swans, and gumtrees that cohabit with the London planes and other reminders of home planted by the British.
With century-old breweries and woolstores being turned into prime apartment blocks all over the city, Perth’s heritage has never been more valuable. Places like COMO The Treasury are incorporating that history into contemporary culture in ways that are making Perth feel like Australia’s most creative city right now.
Sydney and Melbourne may want to take note.