Mount Hawthorn

The Sunday Telegraph - Travel - - Cover Story -

The stretch along Scar­bor­ough Beach road at Mount Hawthorn is one of the home­li­est high streets in Perth. The Padding­ton Ale House is a fan­tas­tic place to watch the footie, cricket or rugby while try­ing out some of their 141 in­ter­na­tional beers, or pick up a bot­tle of wine from their next-door off-li­cence. Shops and bars stay open late on Wed­nes­days, and the Di­abo­lik book­shop (which also stocks a wide range of vinyls) is the kind of place you can lose an en­tire af­ter­noon.

Mount Law­ley, where the cur­rent spirit of re­gen­er­a­tion be­gan, a decade ago. Ryan Zaknich’s job in town-plan­ning left him with a knowl­edgeedge of Perth’sPerth s sub­urbs and he now helps to in­tro­duce lo­cals to their eir own city via his walk­ing ing com­pany Two Feet and Heart­beat (twofeet.com.au).

“When this area was built they wanted to name it af­ter the late gover­nor of WA, Sir Arthur Law­ley, so they asked his widow. . She agreed, on the prom­ise se that you wouldn’t be able to buy al­co­hol there. They said ‘no wor­ries’ – and as soon as she’d cut the rib­bon, in came the pubs.” Gam­bling and pros­ti­tu­tion

were the main en­ter­tain­ments here for most of the 20th cen­tury – now it’s a stretch famed for its Mex­i­can food (cour­tesy of El Publico,Publ where you can snack on pigs’pig skin and bowls of crick­ets).cricke WestW of Beau­fort StreetS is a part of the cityc that Zaknich would love more visitors to dis­cover: Hy­deH Park, a green space with a melan­choly his­tory. ManyMan Nyun­gar peo­ple, who livedl on the land 40,000 years be­fore the ar­rival of theth Dutch, French and Bri­tish, were once for­bid­den to walk through the city af­ter 6pm. They used to make camp and fish for tur­tles in the lake here. Th­ese days you can spot WA’s fa­mous black swans, and gumtrees that co­habit with the Lon­don planes and other re­minders of home planted by the Bri­tish.

With cen­tury-old brew­eries and wool­stores be­ing turned into prime apart­ment blocks all over the city, Perth’s her­itage has never been more valu­able. Places like COMO The Trea­sury are in­cor­po­rat­ing that his­tory into con­tem­po­rary cul­ture in ways that are mak­ing Perth feel like Aus­tralia’s most creative city right now.

Syd­ney and Mel­bourne may want to take note.

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