Burberry brings back its in­fa­mous check with at­ti­tude

The Sunday Telegraph - - News - By Lisa Arm­strong FASHION DI­REC­TOR

You know things have changed when a break­fast is stud­ied with the same in­ten­sity as the looks on the cat­walk. At Mother of Pearl’s show yes­ter­day morn­ing at The Ned ho­tel in the City, the av­o­cado toast, ba­nana and quinoa por­ridge and green juices with float­ing vi­o­lets were hit­ting the num­bers on Instagram, as they were doubt­less de­signed to do.

It may seem tan­gen­tial to the clothes, which were witty and of­fered a myr­iad of dif­fer­ent takes on trousers, but fashion has al­ways been about as­pi­ra­tion and with a lit­tle flair, a small la­bel can gain a lot of trac­tion.

“In terms of aware­ness, the change from a year ago is enor­mous,” says Amy Powney, Mother of Pearl’s cre­ative di­rec­tor. Could she com­pete with the mighty Burberry, show­ing later in the day?

Burberry, whose 2016 sales topped £2.5bil­lion, has fat ad­ver­tis­ing bud­gets; em­ploys Mario Testino, in­ter alia, to shoot ad­ver­tis­ing cam­paigns; and is fa­mous for its block­buster shows and celebrity-filled front rows.

For all its leviathan-es­que di­men­sions, it is show­ing ad­mirable flex­i­bil­ity of late. Like Mother of Pearl, it has moved to the see-now-buy-now strat­egy and grad­u­ated from its mega cat­walk spec­ta­cles to some­thing more in­ti­mate and more “in­die” in tone. Last night’s show, in a for­mer court­house in Clerken­well, was a case in point. On the walls hung “so­cial” por­traits dis­play­ing Bri­tain in its glo­ri­ous, some­times frac­tious, diver­sity.

Mean­while, on the cat­walk, it re­claimed some of its own his­tory. The Burberry check, made in­fa­mous 15 years ago when the “wrong” types were papped in it, was back big time.

The spirit of eclec­ti­cism ruled. Light, charm­ing and lux­u­ri­ous, it had plenty of at­ti­tude.

The Burberry cus­tomer can’t ask for more than that.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from UK

© PressReader. All rights reserved.