One of the big challenges for wine producers is the need to cater to the “tastes of younger drinkers”, says Fiona Beckett in The Guardian.
If you have been drinking Rioja for years, then more mature, oakier vintages such as Booths’ Gran Norte Rioja Reserva
2011 (£12.50) will probably be your thing. More recent converts may prefer a more vibrant style such as the Ramón Bilbao Rioja Viñedos de Altura 2014
(£13.95; Great Western Wine). If you don’t see the words reserva or gran reserva on the label, it’s probably a less traditional style.
New-wave Riojas tend to be made by newer wineries (or those run by the younger generation). Aldonia, for instance, specialises in garnacha rather than the traditional tempranillo – try Aldonia Rioja 2015 (£12.80; Tanners, or £10.80 if you buy three).
When it comes to whites, Rueda has also moved, becoming less sauvignon-like and more lush. I’d recommend Beronia Rueda 2015 (£9.50; Waitrose). Who knows: it might “end up being your default winter white”.
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