V IS FOR VEGAN INNA BUN
It’s Veganuary or some other marketing nonsense. That’s enough for Tom’s Kitchen in Canary Wharf to throw caution to the wind and invite plant-based burger louts The Vurger Company in to pit their low-carbon patty against a traditional fleshy lump.
But which is better? Should you get out of bed for either? Here are the answers. The Vurger Burger (£16) This one looks like an animal and tastes like a bean. Borlotti is its backbone and it tastes like an underpowered stir fry has crawled apologetically between two halves of a bun to hide.
Not a cheap option and with a cloying pate-like texture it lacks a central burst of flavour. Fortunately the red cabbage gives it a redeeming crunch making it better than the full (some) meat alternative. The Grand Lamb Slam (£18) Is such a bamboozling concoction of carbs it tricks your body into believing it’s consuming a whole meal.
Improbably vertical and with an unnecessary rosti, the fermented cabbage is not quite enough to see this triumph over its vegetable opponent.
Aside from anything else, its sheer height makes eating it a tricky proposition.
My colleague Laura Enfield put it best, pronouncing the salty, toothsome fries the winner in this burger battle. Go to tomskitchen.co.uk
Aside from anything else, its sheer height makes eating it tricky The Grand Lamb Slam
The contenders line up as battle commences
Winner (just) The Vurger Burger
Loser – The Grand Lamb Slam