V IS FOR VE­GAN INNA BUN

The Wharf - - News - Jon Massey

It’s Ve­gan­uary or some other mar­ket­ing non­sense. That’s enough for Tom’s Kitchen in Ca­nary Wharf to throw cau­tion to the wind and in­vite plant-based burger louts The Vurger Com­pany in to pit their low-car­bon patty against a tra­di­tional fleshy lump.

But which is bet­ter? Should you get out of bed for ei­ther? Here are the an­swers. The Vurger Burger (£16) This one looks like an an­i­mal and tastes like a bean. Bor­lotti is its back­bone and it tastes like an un­der­pow­ered stir fry has crawled apolo­get­i­cally be­tween two halves of a bun to hide.

Not a cheap op­tion and with a cloy­ing pate-like tex­ture it lacks a cen­tral burst of flavour. For­tu­nately the red cab­bage gives it a re­deem­ing crunch mak­ing it bet­ter than the full (some) meat al­ter­na­tive. The Grand Lamb Slam (£18) Is such a bam­boo­zling con­coc­tion of carbs it tricks your body into be­liev­ing it’s con­sum­ing a whole meal.

Im­prob­a­bly ver­ti­cal and with an un­nec­es­sary rosti, the fer­mented cab­bage is not quite enough to see this triumph over its veg­etable op­po­nent.

Aside from any­thing else, its sheer height makes eat­ing it a tricky propo­si­tion.

My col­league Laura Enfield put it best, pro­nounc­ing the salty, tooth­some fries the win­ner in this burger bat­tle. Go to tom­skitchen.co.uk

Aside from any­thing else, its sheer height makes eat­ing it tricky The Grand Lamb Slam

The con­tenders line up as bat­tle com­mences

Win­ner (just) The Vurger Burger

Loser – The Grand Lamb Slam

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