Liathach
The mighty dynamics of 'The Grey One' conspire to deliver one of Scotland’s greatest mountain challenges, says Jeremy Ashcroft.
Every now and again circumstances of geology, climate and location collude to form the perfect mountain. All mountains and hills have their own special characteristics that will attract a particular fan base; you only need to look at fervent followers of Bleaklow and Roseberry Topping to see this. It’s rare, though, to find a mountain that’s special to every mountaineer, and among the handful of peaks that grace Britain’s shores, Liathach has to be damn close to the top of the list.
The ancient sandstone and quartzite that form Liathach’s bones endow it with a particularly fine symmetry. Its resistant quartzite cap has held firm for millennia against the endless attrition of both weathering and glaciation, to leave a majestic and ridiculously steep side formation. Its towering crest is a combination of crazy pinnacles and arêtes linked to classically shaped pyramidal peaks. The crest has a roughly east-west alignment, and on both the northern and southern flanks slopes sweep in huge, unbroken drops down to sea level.
All this adds up to over seven kilometres of scrambling of which the most difficult bits, over The Pinnacles, clock in at a fairly healthy Grade 2. Between the two Munros of Spidean a’ Coire Leith and Mullach an Rathain there’s no safe escape from the crest, so once committed you must either see the ridge through or return the way you came.
Like a number of other colossi on Scotland’s western seaboard, Liathach shares the magic of being in close proximity to the coast. In bad weather, with winter storms rattling in off the Atlantic, it can be particularly grim, and passage along its crest impossible. But once clear of bad weather and with the clean, blue light flashing across the sea there is no finer place to be. For the mountaineer, swinging around the burly shoulders of Liathach’s pinnacles and gripping the reassuring holds along its crest there is no finer experience to be had.
through Coire Liath Mhor. After the col, the ridge narrows further and twists around gully heads to the twin summits of Stob a’ Choire Liath Mhor.
4 NG932581 From the westerly summit, a short descent leads to another narrow col, then a stiff climb leads onto the high point of the ridge at Spidean a’ Choire Leith.
5 NG929579 As well as being the highest point, Spidean a’ Choire Leith marks the start of the main entertainment on the crossing. A steep descent south-west leads to the start of The Pinnacles and a concentrated section of Grade 2 scrambling. A distinct notch in the crest marks the start of The Pinnacles. The most aesthetic line (and the soundest rock) is along the crest, but there are lots of variations – some of which avoid the worst exposure. The best bet is to carefully pick the line you feel most comfortable with and don’t be afraid to backtrack or to test out alternatives. A narrow and exposed bypass path exists on some sections on the southern side of the crest.
6 NG920575 Am Fasarinen marks the end of The Pinnacles and, technically, things relent a little. However there is still masses of exposure on both sides and a few rock steps to deal with. Continue west-north-west along the crest and gain the final Munro of Mullach an Rathain.
7 NG911576 Descend south-west from the summit of Mullach an Rathain for about 200m into the head of Toll Ban. A steep scree path then is followed south and south-east beside the Allt an Tuill Bhain. After about 1.5km into the descent the path turns south-south-west and drops directly down to the A896. All that remains now is to either jump in your spare car, stick your thumb out or start foot-slogging back up Glen Torridon to regain the start.