Lake District
NY235121 Opposite the farmhouse in Seathwaite, go under an archway through the farm buildings leading to a walled lane. Cross the River Derwent at a footbridge and turn left briefly before climbing sharply, in a westerly direction, alongside Sour Milk Gill. The path emerges at a wide green basin, close to the Hanging Stone. Continue south-west and then south, climbing to the saddle between Base Brown and Green Gable. Enjoy the 360-degree panoramas of Ennerdale Forest, Buttermere and the Langdale Pikes as you take the main ridge towards the 801m top of Green Gable. Skirt slightly south of the summit cairn (today is not about peak bagging) and descend on steep, red scree to Windy Gap.
NY214105 This is where the action starts. Ignore the main path up Great Gable and instead veer off west to pick up a faint track running along the base of the dominating, shattered cliffs of Gable Crag. Continue due west for 600m, taking care to stick to the faded path. Descend the north-west ridge on loose scree before turning west and arriving at the tarndotted col at Beck Head.
NY205106 Head due south along the western slopes of Great Gable on a thin trod that contours the scree before arriving below the rocky tower of the White Napes. Continue east to reach the scree channel of Little Hell Gate, which marks the start of the Great Napes – a castle-like crag famed for its epic climbing routes. This is a good time to reach for the detailed descriptions and pictures of your guidebook, if you have one. The section between Little Hell Gate and Great Hell Gate can be confusing. The easiest option is to continue east and south-east on the main trod, maintaining a steady height about 50m below the base of the crags and negotiating the scree and little buttresses without too much difficulty. Look up to view the rock formations, including Napes Needle, from a safe distance and then exit the Great Napes at the scree chute of Great Hell Gate. For those inclined for more adventurous exploration, scramble up the shifting stones of Needle Gully to the base of the pinnacle, before scrambling yet again to Dress Circle, the perfect spot to watch climbers on Napes Needle. This section is exposed and tricky – extreme caution should be taken. From the rocky ledge of Dress Circle, a higher traverse can be made west to visit (and take a compulsory photograph of) Sphinx Rock, the bizarre outcrop that bears a remarkable resemblance to a human face. NY210098 From Great Hell Gate the going seems easier. Continue south-east towards Raven Crag and Kern Knotts, negotiating scree slopes and skirting around boulders, before finally battling through a large boulderfield and arriving, gratefully, at the undulating, grassy slopes of Sty Head. Veer north-east and aim for the tarn, where Wainwright suggests “nagging wives should be left to paddle their feet”!
NY221099 Walk for 130m beyond the north-west tip of the tarn. Turn left on an obvious track, known as Aaron Slack, and plod uphill back towards Windy Gap alongside a stream. It is a tedious slog, but the thought of nearly completing a full circumnavigation of Great Gable is motivation enough. At Windy Gap, retrace your steps towards Green Gable, the Base Brown spur, Sour Milk Gill and, ultimately, back to your original starting point at Seathwaite.