HOW TO TIE A COM­POS­ITE HACKLE FOR A GARRY DOG

Trout & Salmon (UK) - - Reservoir Fry-feeders -

1 Cut a 1in piece of in­ner tub­ing, burr one end by heat­ing it with a lighter and slide it on to the tube-fly pin. 2 Add a small drop of su­per­glue at the burred end of the in­ner tube and slide on a small piece of medium tub­ing over it, push­ing it down un­til it butts up against the burred end. This en­ables a piece of sil­i­cone hook tub­ing to be added if de­sired, or not if the fly is to be fished with a free-swing­ing hook. 3 Add a small drop of glue in front of the outer tub­ing and push a small cone up to it. I've used a metal­lic, coloured cone here, but sil­ver or gold will work just as well. 4 Start your ty­ing thread di­rectly in front of the cone, trap­ping it in place. 5 Add a tail of Loop Flu­oro Fi­bre in front of the cone and trim the end to a ta­per. Cover the waste ends (in­set). 6 Form a dub­bing loop with your thread and add some dub­bing wax to help trap the pre­pared ma­te­rial when placed in the loop.

8 At­tach a dub­bing spin­ner tool into the base of the dub­bing loop. Then place your pre­pared ma­te­ri­als into the loop, con­trol­ling it with your other hand. Dis­trib­ute the ma­te­ri­als within the loop evenly us­ing your fin­gers or a dub­bing nee­dle. 9 Pinch the loop be­tween in­dex fin­ger and thumb, just above the dub­bing spin­ner. Then spin the spin­ner with the other hand con­trol­ling the amount of twists. 10 As the ma­te­rial starts to spin, slowly re­lease your fin­gers. Use your dub­bing nee­dle to pick out any trapped ma­te­ri­als as the loop tight­ens. Pick­ing fi­bres out im­proves the look of the fin­ished fly. 11 While still main­tain­ing ten­sion on the loop, use your free hand to dou­ble the rope over. Wet­ting your fin­gers at this point will aid the fold­ing. 12 Be­gin to wind the folded ma­te­ri­als on to the tube in touch­ing turns, work­ing for­ward as you would a nor­mal hackle. Pick out any trapped ma­te­ri­als as you go. 13 With the com­pos­ite hackle wound on, lock the end of the loop down with a few turns of thread. Brush and pick out the hackle to dis­trib­ute evenly all round. 14 Tie in an un­der­wing of Arc­tic fox or sim­i­lar, mak­ing sure it's longer then the tail (roughly twice the length of the tail). This will form a lovely ta­per in the fin­ished fly. 15 Now add three strands of pea­cock herl over the Arc­tic fox (I use strands from around the eye of the feather, which have the best shape).

16 Add an over­wing of hair (I've used dyed yel­low bad­ger but fox will work just as well). This wing should be half the length of the un­der­wing. This will give some bulk at the front, help­ing to form an over­all teardrop shape. 17 Add jun­gle cock eyes. I’ve used eyes from the top of the cape. 18 Dou­ble back the stalks and lock them down with a few turns of thread. Trim off the waste. 19 Whip fin­ish and add a small drop of su­per­glue with your dub­bing nee­dle. Then slide on a small cone or disc. Push the cone into place and hold it there un­til the glue sets. 20 Now trim off ex­cess tub­ing, leav­ing a cou­ple of mil­lime­tres to form a burr with a flame in front of the cone. Fi­nally, give the fly an­other good brush to free any trapped ma­te­ri­als.

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