TV Times

The sweets that killed

Would you eat confection­ery containing metal and paraffin? The Victorians did!

- Caren Clark

sweets could be toxic…

‘Adulterati­on could cause food

FOOD The Sweet Makers Wednesday / BBC2 / 8.00Pm

Sweet-toothed Victorians just couldn’t get enough of toffees and chocolates, but as BBC2’S The Sweet Makers shows this week, consumers in the 19th and early 20th century may have been putting their lives at risk because of the toxic ingredient­s some confection­ers were using.

The show’s co-presenter, food historian Dr Annie

Gray, tells us more…

adulterati­on was

a big problem… ‘Small-scale confection­ers would compete in a large market so they would add products that were cheap even if they weren’t officially edible. We got our confection­ers on the show to try to see if they could make toffee with paraffin because it’s a cheaper fat.’

Metal was used for food

colourings… ‘Previously, some dyes were naturally derived from things like spinach, but later they would put vinegar with copper to get a green verdigris colouring and sometimes lead was used.’ poisoning or stomach upsets, but it could be worse if you were weak or malnourish­ed. There was the case of a confection­er who accidental­ly used arsenic in his sweets instead of plaster of Paris – a mistake that had fatal results.’

sugar was cheap… ‘In 1874, the duty on sugar was slashed, so confection­ers could buy lots of it. It meant the working classes could afford to consume more of it, so it was no longer just for the

rich and middle classes.’

sweets were like

something from Charlie and the Chocolate

Factory… ‘Boiled sweets were huge, and the flavours and colours were fantastica­l. They often came in fancy boxes that people would save up for with coupons and you could even get a free clock with them!’ Queen victoria sent Boer war soldiers chocolate… ‘And Queen Mary did the same in the First World War. It’s heartrendi­ng to read letters of thanks the soldiers sent back. It meant so much to these men dying in the mud of Flanders to receive a bar of chocolate. But many never ate it because they liked having this link to home or something to save until after the war.’

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Sweet treat: delicious… but deadly?
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