Wedge cut

high drama meets bold en­gi­neer­ing in sal­va­tore Fer­rag­amo’s re­fab­ri­cated heels

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For his de­but col­lec­tion as sal­va­tore Fer­rag­amo’s de­sign di­rec­tor of women’s footwear, Paul an­drew has stayed ahead of the curve, up­dat­ing the Floren­tine fash­ion house’s sig­na­ture F-shaped wedge – first cre­ated in 1947 – in suede and vel­vet vari­a­tions. ‘i have been re­search­ing the shoes in the house’s archive and this is some­thing that sal­va­tore Fer­rag­amo was never able to do,’ ex­plains the english-born, new York-based de­signer. ‘when i was de­sign­ing the col­lec­tion, i started think­ing about richard serra and the way he works with form. the shape of his Torqued

El­lipse sculp­tures are very rem­i­nis­cent of the F-shaped wedge. it’s very un­der­cut and dra­matic. to mould ma­te­ri­als like vel­vet and suede, which don’t have much give, is very com­pli­cated.’ to achieve the de­sign, an­drew de­vel­oped leather crimp­ing ma­chines, which mould the fab­ric and leather 11 times over sev­eral days. ‘the sil­hou­ette that Fer­rag­amo cre­ated in the 1940s was al­ways cov­ered with two pieces of leather,’ ex­plains an­drew. ‘the state-of-the-art tech­nol­ogy that we now have at our fin­ger­tips al­lows us to man­i­fest the shape in one piece, which is a real feat of en­gi­neer­ing.’ Boots, £750, by Sal­va­tore Fer­rag­amo, fer­rag­

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