Paul Sur­ridge

Wallpaper - - Intelligence - Rober­to­cav­

Roberto Cavalli

of all the ital­ian houses known for their glama­zo­nian lega­cies, few are as bold as roberto cavalli. Which is why the choice of english­man paul sur­ridge as the new cre­ative di­rec­tor came as such a sur­prise. sur­ridge is a cen­tral saint mar­tins grad­u­ate with an ex­ten­sive cv, in­clud­ing stints at the menswear di­vi­sions of calvin klein (when the founder was still at the helm), burberry, jil sander and z zegna. the cavalli gig is his first move into womenswear. ‘menswear is more in the smaller de­tails and the func­tion, whereas womenswear is in the oc­ca­sion and more of an emo­tional ap­proach,’ he says. ‘i like to think that my men’s back­ground has en­abled me to work deeper in the cut, fin­ish and con­struc­tion.’

sur­ridge’s cavalli bor­rows menswear’s math­e­mat­i­cal pre­ci­sion and ob­ses­sion with de­tails, with­out for­get­ting the sex­i­ness that de­fined the flo­ren­tine brand in the first place. sur­ridge walks a thin line be­tween her­itage and re­newal, but then again, he is a man who en­joys a chal­lenge, ‘and ul­ti­mately, it’s roberto cavalli’s core values of beauty and qual­ity that in­spired me’.

his first col­lec­tion still boasts the cavalli es­sen­tials – ze­bra prints, fur, and re­veal­ing cut-outs – but these are com­bined with laser-sharp tai­lor­ing and a touch of an­drog­yny, mak­ing them more ac­ces­si­ble and cur­rent. ‘i’m ded­i­cated to con­tin­u­ing to evolve a mod­ern ap­proach to sen­su­al­ity while re­vis­it­ing some of the cen­tral icons of the mai­son,’ ex­plains sur­ridge.

sur­ridge (above) has care­fully up­dated roberto cavalli’s trade­mark ze­bra print, Which now ap­pears on a per­fectly cut coat

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