Smart cook­ies

En­trepreneurs are bak­ing up bril­liant bis­cuit con­coc­tions

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The cookie, that main­stay of com­fort food con­fec­tionery, has re­cently been the sub­ject of a few makeovers. Evolv­ing the ul­ti­mate com­fort-food pair­ing, cook­ies and milk, Do­minique Ansel, the in­ven­tor of the cronut, of­fers Tahi­tian vanilla milk cookie shots. Thinly lined with choco­late, the lightly baked cookie-dough shot glasses are served with cold milk at his var­i­ous out­posts. New York’s mod­estly named World’s Best Cookie Dough serves up cook­ies and cookie dough in most forms, from sand­wiched with ice cream to com­bined with brownie mix (brookie dough). Across the pond in Lon­don, Naked Dough of­fers a va­ri­ety of cookie dough flavours served in a tub, in a cone or as a freak­shake, all with im­pos­si­bly kitsch brand­ing. Blondies Kitchen’s mis­sion was to bring the au­then­tic Amer­i­can cookie, all crunch on the out­side and yield­ing chew on the in­side, to the UK. They did that with knobs on, mak­ing, among other things, gi­ant Jam­mie Dodger-laced cook­ies and cookie piz­zas. Fi­nally, we don’t know if we can re­ally con­done this, but it is a thing: deep-fried cookie dough, served crin­kle-cut or as balls. Cookie Dõ NYC is a re­spectable enough pur­veyor of flavoured doughs in Greenwich Vil­lage – this year they teamed with out­door cater­ers Big Mozz, pop­ping up at Brook­lyn’s weekly out­door food mar­ket Smor­gas­burg to serve the fried choco­late chip, cake bat­ter or brownie bat­ter balls. Well, if you can fry a Mars Bar...

this cookie and milk cre­ation from do­minique ansel, the in­ven­tor of the cronut, con­sists of a shot­glass made from bis­cuit and filled with vanilla-in­fused milk ‘ur­sula’ Jug, £40, by ur­sula munch-petersen, for käh­ler, from skandium

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