BLOCKING The process of placing a capeline (see below) over a wooden block, then applying water or steam and pressure in order to press it into shape. BUCKRAM Cotton or linen, stiffened with starch. CORNETTO OR CAPELINE Roughly shaped crown and brim of felt or straw, to be blocked or cut and sewn into a hat shape. Technique used to make silk flowers using heated brass tools. MILLINERY WIRE A tensile wire used to stabilise the brim edge. This wire was often thread- covered. RUSH Capeline made of a stiff, thick straw, usually left its natural green colour.