There’s nothing hugely exciting or adventurous about the menu – we avoided the banquets which headed down paths a little too well-worn for my tastes.
Of most interest in the steamed dim sum platter (£7.60 per person) were two little beauties: Chei Chow Fun Kor which is a funky spiced meat and nut dumpling with a little more punch than your usual dim sum fare.
Another, scallop dumpling with crab roe, was even better with the ingredients wrapped together in a delicate, translucent basket.
One of the great things about Chinese food that’s often lost in translation is the extensive use of seasonal vegetables and tofu.
Stuffed bean curd with rainbow vegetables (£9.90) combines both, producing little magnolia bricks or ingots of tofu into which are pressed vegetables, chiefly dominated this time by asparagus.
Although it’s approaching British asparagus season I’d be surprised if this asparagus were British, but even if it’s Spanish it’s at least a decent nod toward seasonality.
Wings’ chief speciality is its renowned sea bass dishes priced daily according to going rates and weight.
The Yin Yan Sea Bass worked out at £30.90 which wasn’t horrendously expensive but perhaps more than it should have been.
As the name implies its fillet cooked two ways: one steamed, one fried.
It’s a great way to show off the fish even if the chef choose to leave in the dark meat.
The sauces lacked punch and were a little vague and wishy washy for my tastes.
That said the quality of the sea bass shone through.
As you might expect in a ‘celeb-haunt’, the wine list is somewhat decadent without appealing to those of us who may be a little more financially embarrassed than Premier League footballers.
I hovered over the listing for a Lafite Rothschild 1999 (£1,199) and decided instead for a Tsingtao (£4.40). At £80 for the entire meal including five beers, I’d say there’s much better value Cantonese or indeed Szechuan food elsewhere.