Wilmslow Express - - CITY LIFE LOCAL -

There’s noth­ing hugely ex­cit­ing or ad­ven­tur­ous about the menu – we avoided the ban­quets which headed down paths a lit­tle too well-worn for my tastes.

Of most in­ter­est in the steamed dim sum plat­ter (£7.60 per per­son) were two lit­tle beau­ties: Chei Chow Fun Kor which is a funky spiced meat and nut dumpling with a lit­tle more punch than your usual dim sum fare.

An­other, scal­lop dumpling with crab roe, was even bet­ter with the in­gre­di­ents wrapped to­gether in a del­i­cate, translu­cent bas­ket.

One of the great things about Chi­nese food that’s of­ten lost in trans­la­tion is the ex­ten­sive use of sea­sonal veg­eta­bles and tofu.

Stuffed bean curd with rain­bow veg­eta­bles (£9.90) com­bines both, pro­duc­ing lit­tle mag­no­lia bricks or in­gots of tofu into which are pressed veg­eta­bles, chiefly dom­i­nated this time by as­para­gus.

Although it’s ap­proach­ing Bri­tish as­para­gus sea­son I’d be sur­prised if this as­para­gus were Bri­tish, but even if it’s Span­ish it’s at least a de­cent nod to­ward sea­son­al­ity.

Wings’ chief spe­cial­ity is its renowned sea bass dishes priced daily ac­cord­ing to go­ing rates and weight.

The Yin Yan Sea Bass worked out at £30.90 which wasn’t hor­ren­dously ex­pen­sive but per­haps more than it should have been.

As the name im­plies its fil­let cooked two ways: one steamed, one fried.

It’s a great way to show off the fish even if the chef choose to leave in the dark meat.

The sauces lacked punch and were a lit­tle vague and wishy washy for my tastes.

That said the qual­ity of the sea bass shone through.

As you might ex­pect in a ‘celeb-haunt’, the wine list is some­what deca­dent with­out ap­peal­ing to those of us who may be a lit­tle more fi­nan­cially em­bar­rassed than Pre­mier League foot­ballers.

I hov­ered over the list­ing for a Lafite Roth­schild 1999 (£1,199) and de­cided in­stead for a Ts­ing­tao (£4.40). At £80 for the en­tire meal in­clud­ing five beers, I’d say there’s much bet­ter value Can­tonese or in­deed Szechuan food else­where.

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