noW open: Jr’s corner BAr-B-Que

Austin American-Statesman - - FOOD MATTERS - — Matthew Odam

There’s no fancy A-list ar­chi­tect or de­signer at­tached to the build­ing. The food isn’t served out of a vin­tage Airstream. And the only thing hip about the place is the owner’s sur­gi­cally re­placed one.

JR’s Corner Bar-B-Que is old school. Like, 1937 old school.

That’s how long the piece of prop­erty has been in the fam­ily of pro­pri­etor Ben Dukes, the 75-year-old grand­fa­ther fig­ure be­hind the new-again old place in East Austin.

Af­ter hip prob­lems forced Dukes to close his res­tau­rant — housed in a for­mer gas sta­tion and con­ve­nience store — he rented to sev­eral ten­ants over the years. His mo­bil­ity fully re­stored, Dukes is back with his son-in-law, Louis Green, work­ing at his bar­be­cue pit.

From a walk-up win­dow, J.R.’s serves sausage, brisket, chicken and pork ribs, smoked over pecan and post oak, along with sides of beans and potato salad. A chopped-beef sandwich costs $2.25, a rib plate is $8.50, a three-meat combo is $9.75. Gospel mu­sic min­gles with the smoke, serv­ing equally di­vine pur­poses.

You can take the food to go or step in­side the small din­ing room, which feels like part thrift store, part hunt­ing lodge and part fam­ily mu­seum — with mis­matched fur­ni­ture, mounted hunt­ing tro­phies and pho­tos of him with past Texas gov­er­nors Dolph Briscoe, Ann Richards and Ge­orge W. Bush shar­ing space with news­pa­per clip­pings and pic­tures of his daugh­ter, state Rep. Dawnna Dukes.

1900 Rose­wood Ave. Hours: 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wed­nes­days-Fri­days.

Ben Dukes, fa­ther of state Rep. Dawnna Dukes, cooks sausage, brisket, chicken and pork ribs over pecan and post oak.

Matthew Odam pho­tos amer­i­can-states­man

The spot at 1900 Rose­wood Ave. has been in the same fam­ily for 75 years, and has re­opened as a walk-up bar­be­cue res­tau­rant.

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