The Grove Wine Bar and Kitchen: Heirloom Tomato Salad

6317 Bee Cave Road. 327-8822, www.

Austin American-Statesman - - FOOD & DRINK - — M.S.

sweet teardrops of bright red. They rest on a mix of arugula, strips of fresh basil, even the red-veined leaves of beet tops, driz­zled with sweet bal­samic and basil oil. I asked for a wine pair­ing and out came a cool glass of Feudi di San Gre­go­rio falanghina, a bal­anced white from south­ern Italy with enough fruit to soften the herbs and the right acid­ity for the milky moz­zarella. At $10 a glass, it falls mid­way on the price scale of the Grove’s 50-some wines by the glass, rang­ing from $5 and $6 glasses

Reed Cle­mons is a res­tau­rant sur­vivor. The Gran­ite Cafe, Mez­za­luna, the Bit­ter End, Reed’s. All his. As the last doors closed and the noise died down, he qui­etly opened the Grove just west of West Lake Hills in 2008. There’s hardly a night when the park­ing lot isn’t over­flow­ing. They come for an en­cy­clo­pe­dic wine list and the food that goes with it: pasta, piz­zas, a few grill plates, nine kinds of br­uschetta. And sal­ads. Par­tic­u­larly the $11 Cap­rese-style col­lec­tion of greens and basil and moz­zarella — and heirloom toma­toes. A light green one with cas­cades of dusky jade, a ridged beauty of blush­ing salmon rouge, tiny of sparkling Louis Pedrier rosé and Robert Oat­ley sauvi­gnon blanc to $15 for a mus­cu­lar cab from Chap­pel­let. Flights of three glasses matched by coun­try or style make ex­plo­ration con­ve­nient. Now if they could just help me find a closer place to park.

The Grove Wine Bar and Kitchen is op­er­ated by long­time Austin restau­ra­teur Reed Cle­mons.

MIke Sut­ter pho­tos

For its Ap­ple Buzios, Rio’s Brazil­ian Cafe roasts the fruit in red wine.

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