How does bone broth stand up to the hype?

Austin American-Statesman - - AUSTIN360 FOOD - By Re­bekah Denn Spe­cial to the Wash­ing­ton Post Broth

At the Satur­day farm­ers mar­ket in the col­lege town of Belling­ham, Wash., cus­tomers are lin­ing up for the latest in­no­va­tion at chef Gabriel Clay­camp’s bone broth cart. Equipped with an espresso ma­chine, work­ers at Caul­dron Broths are steam­ing a lat­te­like soup drink they call Froth Broth. Soup-baris­tas on a re­cent week­end of­fered a $4 spe­cial in­fused with the fla­vors of tom kha gai and rec­om­mended spark­ing the un­sea­soned $3 broth-latte with condi­ments such as a tiny spoon­ful of sea salt.

If the idea makes (non-chick­en­scented) steam come out of your ears, you’re on one side of the bone broth de­bate. If it sounds as good as Clay­camp’s reg­u­lar cus­tomers say, you’re on the other.

The trend-top­ping drink, loved by celebri­ties, ath­letes and many hum­bler fig­ures in search of bet­ter health, is gen­er­ally made by sim­mer­ing bones for hours in wa­ter with added vine­gar. Acolytes say the re­sult­ing col­la­gen­rich liq­uid re­duces in­flam­ma­tion, cures leaky guts, nour­ishes the im­mune sys­tem, strength­ens bones and pro­motes ra­di­ant hair and skin. De­trac­tors think it’s a ridicu­lous rip-off. Even Clay­camp, whose past projects in­clude a Seat­tle cooking school and a well-

HAY­LEY YOUNG FOR THE WASH­ING­TON POST

This bone broth from Caul­dron Broths in Belling­ham, Wash., con­tains notes of beets and dill.

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