How does bone broth stand up to the hype?
At the Saturday farmers market in the college town of Bellingham, Wash., customers are lining up for the latest innovation at chef Gabriel Claycamp’s bone broth cart. Equipped with an espresso machine, workers at Cauldron Broths are steaming a lattelike soup drink they call Froth Broth. Soup-baristas on a recent weekend offered a $4 special infused with the flavors of tom kha gai and recommended sparking the unseasoned $3 broth-latte with condiments such as a tiny spoonful of sea salt.
If the idea makes (non-chickenscented) steam come out of your ears, you’re on one side of the bone broth debate. If it sounds as good as Claycamp’s regular customers say, you’re on the other.
The trend-topping drink, loved by celebrities, athletes and many humbler figures in search of better health, is generally made by simmering bones for hours in water with added vinegar. Acolytes say the resulting collagenrich liquid reduces inflammation, cures leaky guts, nourishes the immune system, strengthens bones and promotes radiant hair and skin. Detractors think it’s a ridiculous rip-off. Even Claycamp, whose past projects include a Seattle cooking school and a well-
This bone broth from Cauldron Broths in Bellingham, Wash., contains notes of beets and dill.