Deal­ing with Canadian clear­weed

It can be trou­ble, but not dif­fi­cult; black and red rasp­ber­ries must be weeded dif­fer­ently

Baltimore Sun Sunday - - REAL ESTATE - By Ellen Nibali

A bright light in the in­va­sive plant bat­tles, Canadian clear­weed is able to adapt to soils ren­dered toxic by in­va­sive gar­lic mus­tard. Clear­weed is a na­tive an­nual, ter­rific in woods or wild ar­eas, but it re­seeds read­ily, so it can be a nui­sance in or­na­men­tal beds. It’s in­cred­i­bly easy to pull; you don’t need an her­bi­cide. Stems are so wa­tery-ten­der, you can walk on and crush seedlings. It will pro­duce tons of seeds, so re­move seedlings or toss them in a nat­u­ral area.

You can­not. Your neigh­bor un­doubt­edly has red rasp­ber­ries that will re­grow and fruit next sum­mer on new canes. Black rasp­ber­ries fruit on the pre­vi­ous sum­mer’s canes, so you mustn’t cut off this sum­mer’s new canes. Af­ter they fruit, canes die. Prune dead canes to the ground. The eas­i­est way to con­trol weeds and man­age black rasp­ber­ries is to grow them in a row, so you can eas­ily reach the crowns for prun­ing and har­vest­ing. Trans­plant your rasp­ber­ries into rows. There is no easy so­lu­tion to your weeds at this time of year. Wade in and start weed­ing. Don't bother pulling or dig­ging tall, huge weeds. Cut them off at the base. Don’t let them go to seed. In the fu­ture, keep the patch mulched. Black rasp­berry plants re­quire a light spring prun­ing. Aim for about yard-long canes and foot-long side shoots. Search the HGIC web­site for cul­ture de­tail, in­clud­ing prun­ing.

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