Faro’s Tus­can Kitchen serves up au­then­tic Ital­ian fare in Sea­port

Boston Herald - - FORK LIFT -

Stroll past the bold im­ported mar­ble that tops a 100-seat bar on re­claimed wood floors, by the home­made gelato bar, to the open kitchen and moz­zarella bar, where they hand stretch the cheese to order, and set­tle in next to the open fire­place en­cased with Ital­ian lime­stone.

Tus­can Kitchen owner Joe Faro is serv­ing up Old World am­bi­ence along with au­then­tic Ital­ian cui­sine at his lat­est res­tau­rant, open­ing Mon­day, in the heart of the In­no­va­tion

District. The 14,000-square­foot, 350-seat res­tau­rant is in Sea­port Square and Faro is ex­cited to be a part of the neigh­bor­hood. “I've never seen

Bos­ton so vi­brant and so in­no­va­tive and so im­pres­sive as it is right now,” he said.

This joins other Tus­can Kitchen lo­ca­tions in Portsmouth and Salem, N.H., and Burling­ton. “This lo­ca­tion is no dif­fer­ent,” Faro said. “What this space has though is a lit­tle bit of edge to it and the din­ing room is go­ing to have a lit­tle more of an up­scale ap­proach,” with white linens and se­lect dishes fin­ished at ta­bles.

Of the roughly 3,500 wheels of parmi­giano-reg­giano that the com­pany im­ports each year, the Sea­port Square lo­ca­tion will grad­u­ally make a sub­stan­tial dent in the sup­ply by toss­ing tagli­atelle with flam­ing brandy, truf­fles and cream for a lux­u­ri­ous ta­ble­side event.

Faro has fos­tered re­la­tion­ships with ar­ti­san pro­duc­ers over the years, in­clud­ing procur­ing olive oil made by a fam­ily friend in Si­cily and serv­ing wine that is crafted for the com­pany by Castello di Querceto vine­yard in Tus­cany.

“We im­port a 50,000-pound con­tainer of dou­ble zero flour

ev­ery other month,” Faro said. This finely ground flour with a low bran con­tent is used in Tus­can Kitchen's rich pasta recipe, com­prised of the flour, egg yolks, salt and olive oil for a silky smooth tex­ture and chewy bite.

“I have all these con­tacts from my last life as a pasta maker,” Faro said, re­fer­ring to the $70 mil­lion-a-year pasta and sauce busi­ness that he sold to Nes­tle in 2006, be­fore he was 40 years old. “I'd al­ways find rea­sons to have to cre­ate re­la­tion­ships and go to Italy be­cause that's the in­spi­ra­tion that al­ways fu­eled the in­no­va­tion of my busi­ness.”

The son of Ital­ian im­mi­grants who owned a neigh­bor­hood bak­ery, Faro joked that he was “born in a mixer. Ar­ti­san Ital­ian pro­duc­tion is all I've ever done, so for me to do this it's a nat­u­ral syn­ergy. My pas­sion is cre­at­ing these prod­ucts and shar­ing them with the guests.”

Faro's team now crafts bread, pasta, gelato, 21 types of salume and other culi­nary de­lights in a 27,000-square­foot pro­duc­tion fa­cil­ity in Salem, N.H. All the prod­ucts are served in Tus­can Kitchen restau­rants or sold in the Tus­can Mar­kets around New Eng­land.

“Peo­ple al­ways ask me, `Why don't you open one in Ve­gas? Why don't you open one in Florida?' and I al­ways say if I can't de­liver fresh bread to it, I don't want it.”

Tus­can Kitchen (64Sea­port Blvd., at Thom­son Place), opens for lunch and din­ner on Mon­day. For more in­for­ma­tion, go to tus­can­, or try mak­ing ex­ec­u­tive chef Nimesh Ma­har­jan's recipe for Zuppa di Zucca at home.

Zuppa di Zucca 5 lbs. Long Is­land cheese pump­kin, peeled and seeds scooped out, cut into 1-inch cubes (sub­sti­tute but­ter­nut squash if not avail­able)

D c. olive oil

1 small Span­ish onion, cut

into medium dice

1 T. minced gar­lic

2 T. grated gin­ger

8 c. wa­ter

Pinch cin­na­mon

1 t. salt

1 qt. heavy cream (or re­place with wa­ter for a ve­gan diet)

2 T. sherry vine­gar

A c. maple syrup

2 t. Sriracha sauce

D c. toasted al­monds 2 slices pro­sciutto, cut into strips and fried for gar­nish, op­tional

3 leaves fresh sage, cut into


Place the cubed pump­kin on a sheet pan and roast at 350 de­grees for 25 min­utes, or un­til golden brown.

Heat oil in a 10-quart stock pot over medium heat, then sweat the onions, gar­lic and gin­ger un­til the onions are translu­cent. Add the roasted pump­kin, wa­ter, cin­na­mon and salt, and bring to a sim­mer. Add the heavy cream (or wa­ter) and bring this mix­ture to a boil.

Care­fully trans­fer half of the soup to a blender and puree un­til smooth, then trans­fer to an­other pot or large bowl. Re­peat this process with the re­main­ing soup.

Fin­ish the soup by stir­ring in the maple syrup, sherry vine­gar and Sriracha.

Top each por­tion with toasted al­monds, op­tional crispy pro­sciutto strips and a sprin­kling of sage.


TOP CHEF: Ex­ec­u­tive chef Nimesh Ma­har­jan pre­sents a roasted pump­kin soup at the new Tus­can Kitchen in the Sea­port District.


FEEd­iNG iN­NO­Va­TiON: Owner Joe Faro will open a new Tus­can Kitchen res­tau­rant, serv­ing up­scale ital­ian dishes, in Bos­ton's in­no­va­tion district.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from USA

© PressReader. All rights reserved.