Dar­ing and dash­ing


Boston Herald - - THE EDGE - By GRETTA MON­A­HAN

NEW YORK — As Fashion Week Fall 2018 rolls on here, so do the cre­ations — by turns gor­geous, in­ven­tive and state­ment-mak­ing — emerg­ing from de­sign­ers' col­lec­tions. On the eve of her re­tire­ment, global trea­sure Carolina Her­rera came out at her show along­side fel­low team de­sign­ers to be hon­ored for her life's work. And that work was a stun­ning swan song on her run­way, full of un­der­stated el­e­gance in some looks, and un­apolo­getic dar­ing in others. The un­der­stated el­e­gance was best per­son­i­fied in pieces such as her flow­ing, long white coat set off with wide fur an­i­mal print cuffs, while the dar­ing was clearly rep­re­sented in num­bers like her acid yel­low duster with the same pat­terned fur, this time in a col­lar — both at­ten­tion­grab­bing and beau­ti­ful in its sim­plic­ity. A twist-waisted midi dress, mean­while, came in ar­rest­ing or­ange and pink, and draped gor­geously, with long swoop­ing sleeves.

Any fans of The Row know that Mary-Kate and Ash­ley Olsen have made their mark with spec­tac­u­lar day clothes, and this

time around they el­e­vated trenches, wide-legged pants, baggy turtle­neck sweaters and re­laxed coats that took ca­sual to a new, head-turn­ing level. I loved the earthy color pal­ette and sil­hou­ettes that man­aged to be loose but still pol­ished.

At 3.1 Phillip Lim, the de­signer's long-run­ning ob­ses­sion with global flair and un­fussy lux­ury con­tin­ued, brought into play by his sportswear sep­a­rates such as chunky, pale pink cowl neck sweaters, patch­work dresses in mul­ti­pat­terns, long light cot­ton skirts, ruf­fled and long-hemmed shirts, and whim­si­cal suits such as a crinkly baggy li­lac en­sem­ble and a gen­er­ously sized glen plaid combo.

The eques­trian mo­tifs that re­sounded through­out the show at Derek Lam was a truly new way to do the theme, with an easy-to-wear and in­spired col­lec­tion. At times it delved into sporti­ness — with royal blue, black and white chevron and fuzzy sweaters in di­a­mond pat­terns. At other mo­ments things took a more pa­tri­cian turn, as with the hound­stooth cape in pretty browns and navy.

Some truly great work­wear was brought out at Vic­to­ria Beck­ham, who has honed her abil­ity to ac­com­mo­date the needs of moms and pro­fes­sional women with defini­tive style. Her suits and coats had a cool mil­i­tary edge — with big-belted waists and a stun­ning olive leather trench with a con­trast­ing dark sal­mon col­lar. And there were her in­cred­i­ble col­or­ful bags, which are ab­so­lutely enor­mous, and can fit ev­ery­thing you need for the en­tire day, from all your kids' stuff to work­out gear and ev­ery­thing in be­tween.

And then there was the en­ergy drummed up at Pra­bal Gu­rung, partly for the clothes and partly for the mes­sage they car­ried. Gu­rung has made ac­tivism a cor­ner­stone of his shows over the years. This year his col­lec­tion was filled with up­beat pink and pur­ple — the col­ors he says rep­re­sents fe­male pow­ers to him. In a nod to the ma­tri­ar­chal Mo­suo tribe of China and the In­dian group Gu­labi Gang, he brought out sari-like wraps in shades of deep pink, ca­ble knits and puffer jack­ets in vi­brant pur­ple, and killer evening dress color-blocked in deep dark pur­ple, elec­tric blue pip­ing and shock­ing red. Mes­sage de­liv­ered.








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