Daring and dashing
DESIGNERS DELIVER BEAUTIFUL, INSPIRED LOOKS FOR FALL
NEW YORK — As Fashion Week Fall 2018 rolls on here, so do the creations — by turns gorgeous, inventive and statement-making — emerging from designers' collections. On the eve of her retirement, global treasure Carolina Herrera came out at her show alongside fellow team designers to be honored for her life's work. And that work was a stunning swan song on her runway, full of understated elegance in some looks, and unapologetic daring in others. The understated elegance was best personified in pieces such as her flowing, long white coat set off with wide fur animal print cuffs, while the daring was clearly represented in numbers like her acid yellow duster with the same patterned fur, this time in a collar — both attentiongrabbing and beautiful in its simplicity. A twist-waisted midi dress, meanwhile, came in arresting orange and pink, and draped gorgeously, with long swooping sleeves.
Any fans of The Row know that Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have made their mark with spectacular day clothes, and this
time around they elevated trenches, wide-legged pants, baggy turtleneck sweaters and relaxed coats that took casual to a new, head-turning level. I loved the earthy color palette and silhouettes that managed to be loose but still polished.
At 3.1 Phillip Lim, the designer's long-running obsession with global flair and unfussy luxury continued, brought into play by his sportswear separates such as chunky, pale pink cowl neck sweaters, patchwork dresses in multipatterns, long light cotton skirts, ruffled and long-hemmed shirts, and whimsical suits such as a crinkly baggy lilac ensemble and a generously sized glen plaid combo.
The equestrian motifs that resounded throughout the show at Derek Lam was a truly new way to do the theme, with an easy-to-wear and inspired collection. At times it delved into sportiness — with royal blue, black and white chevron and fuzzy sweaters in diamond patterns. At other moments things took a more patrician turn, as with the houndstooth cape in pretty browns and navy.
Some truly great workwear was brought out at Victoria Beckham, who has honed her ability to accommodate the needs of moms and professional women with definitive style. Her suits and coats had a cool military edge — with big-belted waists and a stunning olive leather trench with a contrasting dark salmon collar. And there were her incredible colorful bags, which are absolutely enormous, and can fit everything you need for the entire day, from all your kids' stuff to workout gear and everything in between.
And then there was the energy drummed up at Prabal Gurung, partly for the clothes and partly for the message they carried. Gurung has made activism a cornerstone of his shows over the years. This year his collection was filled with upbeat pink and purple — the colors he says represents female powers to him. In a nod to the matriarchal Mosuo tribe of China and the Indian group Gulabi Gang, he brought out sari-like wraps in shades of deep pink, cable knits and puffer jackets in vibrant purple, and killer evening dress color-blocked in deep dark purple, electric blue piping and shocking red. Message delivered.
PRABAL GURUNG COLLECTION
CAROLINA HERRERA COLLECTION
VICTORIA BECKHAM COLLECTION
PHILLIP LIM COLLECTION
VICTORIA BECKHAM COLLECTION
DEREK LAM COLLECTION