// REBEL YELL

FASH­ION EX­PERT OF NEIMAN MAR­CUS FINDS EM­POW­ER­MENT IN THIS SEA­SON’S PUNK ROCK TRENDS.

Capitol File - - CONTENTS - BY MARISSA MITROVICH

Fash­ion ex­pert Ken Down­ing of Neiman Mar­cus finds em­pow­er­ment in this sea­son’s punk rock trends.

As se­nior vice pres­i­dent and fash­ion di­rec­tor for Neiman Mar­cus, Ken Down­ing is a widely trusted style author­ity. For fall, he tells us, “Rebel voices are tak­ing fash­ion by storm,” with heavy punk rock and ’80s in­flu­ences re­sult­ing from the cur­rent state of pol­i­tics. It’s an ex­cit­ing time for em­pow­er­ment in fash­ion, which is man­i­fest­ing it­self in wear­able trends for ev­ery­day. Why punk? “With many de­sign­ers mov­ing out of the seden­tary ’70s, the ’80s seemed like the next fron­tier to mine for ideas. Punk rock in the ’80s was much more about fash­ion and mu­sic in­stead of po­lit­i­cal commentary, but with so much un­rest in our own coun­try, de­sign­ers re­ally took to this rebel voice and used the run­way as a stage to voice opin­ions.” What does the trend look like? “We’re see­ing the re­turn of the power suit for women via mod­ern tai­lor­ing with an ex­ag­ger­ated shoul­der. The biker jacket has come back in a very strong way, re­plac­ing the bomber. De­sign­ers are an­nounc­ing their points of view on mes­sage T-shirts, which harken back to Katharine Ham­nett. Reds, from deep cran­berry to bright lip­stick, are many times ac­cented with pale pink to shock­ing pink. Boots run up the leg, cre­at­ing this cover and ar­mor. The leather leg­ging has re­turned, and it’s an in­ter­est­ing

di­chotomy, where a trouser now is su­per­wide with ab­so­lute menswear ref­er­enc­ing.” How does DC wear this style? “As soon as you say ‘punk,’ it sounds like you’re talk­ing about a T-shirt with pro­fan­ity on it. That’s not the case. It comes through in the em­bel­lish­ment that ap­pears on shoes and the de­tails on a hand­bag.

The biker jacket is a piv­otal piece in ev­ery woman’s wardrobe, adding edge to ele­gance.” Will Congress take note? At­tire rules— in­clud­ing a ban on sleeve­less looks—are be­ing en­forced. “I can’t af­fect what’s hap­pen­ing in Congress and how they will dress. That is so the op­po­site of where fash­ion is. But Raf Si­mons for Calvin Klein showed a biker jacket with sil­ver roses that are very Amer­i­cana, and a wrap skirt made out of fab­rics that re­sem­ble the Amer­i­can flag. Calvin Klein and Proenza Schouler both pre­sented mod­i­fied cow­boy boots, re­ally show­ing the Amer­i­can spirit and in­clu­sive­ness of the fash­ion in­dus­try. What woman is this for? We saw ev­ery race, creed, color, body type, and age walk­ing the run­ways. Through ad­ver­sity, good things hap­pen. De­sign­ers re­al­ize the im­por­tance in these times of truly em­pow­er­ing women. I thought that was a pos­i­tive stride for­ward in our in­dus­try, be­cause that is who the cus­tomer is.” It’s a beau­ti­ful, mov­ing time, isn’t it? “It takes a lot to move me—not that I am jaded, but I have been do­ing this a long time. There is noth­ing I en­joy more than be­ing de­light­fully sur­prised and taken off guard at a fash­ion show. It just felt right.” Neiman Mar­cus is lo­cated in Mazza Gal­lerie, 202966-9700, and Tysons Gal­le­ria, 703-761-1600; neiman­mar­cus.com.

A look from Fendi’s fall run­way.

“WITH SO MUCH UN­REST IN OUR OWN COUN­TRY, DE­SIGN­ERS TOOK TO THIS REBEL VOICE AND USED THE RUN­WAY TO VOICE OPIN­IONS.” —KEN DOWN­ING

Looks from the new fall col­lec­tions by (ƚƛƨƯƞ ƟƫƨƦ ƥƞƟƭ 0LFKDHO .RUV &DOYLQ .OHLQ 9LFWRULD %HFNKDP DQG 0LFKDHO .RUV ƥƞƟƭ .HQ 'RZQLQJ VHQLRU YLFH SUHVLGHQW DQG IDVKLRQ GLUHFWRU IRU 1HLPDQ 0DUFXV VD\V WKH UHWXUQ RI SXQN URFN VW\OH LV D UHDFWLRQ WR WRGD\ōV IUDFWLRXV SROLWLFV

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from USA

© PressReader. All rights reserved.