AL DENTE

TWO OF DC’S TOP CHEFS ARE SAUCED UP ABOUT 2017’S PASTA RESUR­GENCE.

Capitol File - - CON­TENTS - BY HOL­LEY SIM­MONS

AL DENTE

These DC chefs are get­ting their pas­tas just right—like the spaghetti alla chi­tarra at Cen­trolina.

ED SCAR­PONE

Who: The brand-new ex­ec­u­tive chef of Miche­lin-starred Fi­ola by Fabio Traboc­chi. Ital­ian roots: “Be­fore the wa­ter even started boiling, my grand­mother had the dough rolled, cut, and ready to go.” In­spi­ra­tions: “An un­usual com­bi­na­tion of in­gre­di­ents or a clas­sic fla­vor I want to tweak. I’m not go­ing to In­sta­gram to find some­thing to cook.” Why pasta now? “Crafts have fallen by the way­side in ev­ery in­dus­try; pasta is one of these. Peo­ple want to el­e­vate it to an art form.” Fi­ola’s most pop­u­lar: “The tast­ing menu; we can change it daily with the most high-qual­ity in­gre­di­ents.” The Fi­ola ex­pe­ri­ence: “Any­one can go to a restau­rant and eat, but if you’re bak­ing a whole chicken in a pump­kin and serv­ing it ta­ble­side, ev­ery­thing comes full cir­cle.” 601 Penn­syl­va­nia Ave. NW, 202-628-2888; fi­o­ladc.com

AMY BRANDWEIN

Who: Chef-owner of Ital­ian hotspot Cen­trolina, who ear­lier this year snagged a James Beard Award nom­i­na­tion. The hard part of pasta: “Nail­ing the tex­ture and elas­tic­ity. You have to tin­ker with it, de­pend­ing on the hu­mid­ity and the size of the egg.” Cen­trolina style: “We have six pas­tas, and each dough is made dif­fer­ently, for the shape and mouth feel we’re go­ing for.” What’s hot: “A red-wine pasta dough made with truf­fles. We put it to­gether with woodroasted mush­rooms and gar­lic.” Fall fa­vorites: “All the ragùs, the beau­ti­ful squash, the bit­ter greens. It’s time to cook all that woodroasted food.” 974 Palmer Al­ley NW, 202-898-2426; cen­troli­nadc.com

“This dish in­cor­po­rates car­rot in the egg pasta base, giv­ing it bal­anced, sweet notes,” says chef Amy Brandwein of her spaghetti alla chi­tarra. “f love in­tro­duc­ing peo­ple to pas­tas made with un­fa­mil­iar in­gre­di­ents, grains, or greens.”

“The tortellini in­cludes

Parme­san foam, roasted porcini, and truf­fle,” says ciola’s ex­ec­u­tive chef, bd Scar­pone. “ft’s sim­ple. Sim­plic­ity is its own form of so­phis­ti­ca­tion.”

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