Hang­board Lad­ders

Climbing - - CLINICS TRAINING - BY STEVE BECHTEL

BUILD LONG-TERM FINGER STRENGTH WITH STRUC­TURED HANG­BOARD­ING In climb­ing, when your fin­gers fail, the rest of your body falls. Fo­cus­ing on this di­rect con­nec­tion to the rock can ben­e­fit your climb­ing per­for­mance greatly, and luck­ily, finger strength is rel­a­tively easy to train. The key with this, like any train­ing, is to do it cor­rectly and in the right amount, as too much can be time- con­sum­ing, bor­ing, and pos­si­bly harm­ful. In my 20+ years of train­ing ex­pe­ri­ence, I’ve found a sim­ple way to max­i­mize finger strength while stay­ing far away from the zone where in­jury is pos­si­ble. The idea is to strate­gi­cally change the vol­ume of work in any given ses­sion via “hang­board lad­ders,” where easy, medium, and hard sets are cy­cled through and weights are ad­justed in a way that in­creases strength while com­pletely avoid­ing risk.

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