The goal of this program is to build strength over a variety of hang times while maintaining a very low risk of injury. Follow these guidelines to maximize your training.
Don’t get pumped. If you are pumped or sweating, you aren’t resting long enough between hangs.
Train while climbing hard outside. This is a pure strength program, so it’s appropriate to use at the same time as you are trying to climb well outside. If you are a weekend warrior, this is a great Monday through Thursday plan, and you can do some other climbing.
Don’t be in a hurry to get strong fast. Quick strength gains lead to quick losses. Slow gains are the ones you keep. Research shows that high- intensity training can lead to quick strength increases, with the gains coming from improvements in energysystem efficiency. On the other hand, a slow, steady progression creates more efficient neurological pathways, which leads to long- term persistent gains.
Only increase the load once a month. Don’t look at strength training as an event or something to do this month, but as a new lifestyle habit. Your mind should not be on next weekend, but on five years from now.
This training program can be used year- round. However, many climbers find that training constantly is difficult. For such climbers, try two 4-week cycles, followed by a month of just climbing. After this “month off,” resume the cycle. A good schedule for a weekend warrior would be to train Monday and Thursday or Tuesday and Thursday. The specific days of the week don’t matter, but you should have at least one day between training finger strength so you’re fresh.