Techniques for rope anchors.
Modern anchors are equalized so that individual pieces of pro are not shock-loaded if one of them fails. Equalizing a rope anchor requires a lot of extra rope, which you may not have after a really long pitch. That means it’s crucial for each of your placements to be bomber when building a rope anchor. Bolted belays in granite with modern hardware, well-placed cams in solid sandstone, or reliable nuts in good rock can all be the foundation of a good anchor. Luckily on most trade routes, belay stations provide ample opportunities for gear. Any time you have suspect pro, like marginal nuts, bad pins, or barely seated cams, it’s better to equalize