IN SES­SION

Climbing - - CONTENTS -

Tech­niques for rope an­chors.

Mod­ern an­chors are equal­ized so that in­di­vid­ual pieces of pro are not shock-loaded if one of them fails. Equal­iz­ing a rope an­chor re­quires a lot of ex­tra rope, which you may not have after a re­ally long pitch. That means it’s cru­cial for each of your place­ments to be bomber when build­ing a rope an­chor. Bolted be­lays in gran­ite with mod­ern hard­ware, well-placed cams in solid sand­stone, or re­li­able nuts in good rock can all be the foun­da­tion of a good an­chor. Luck­ily on most trade routes, be­lay sta­tions pro­vide am­ple op­por­tu­ni­ties for gear. Any time you have sus­pect pro, like mar­ginal nuts, bad pins, or barely seated cams, it’s bet­ter to equal­ize

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