Climbing - - THE CLIMB THE BETA -

“I couldn’t be­lieve it hadn’t been bolted. To me, the di­rect line [a start to the al­ready-es­tab­lished Ul­tra-Perm (5.13d)] was the most pro­found thing I had seen in the Red at the time. I was re­ally drawn to the steep an­gle and the sculpted holds that the Red yields. Through the process of clean­ing, bolt­ing, and work­ing the project [in Novem­ber 2008], my psych verged on the point of manic. I re­mem­ber leav­ing Miguel’s Pizza at 10 p.m. one night to bolt. There were bats fly­ing around and spooky noises in the woods. I was alone and to­tally los­ing it. I fin­ished and ran back to my car, look­ing in my rearview mir­ror to see if there was any­thing be­hind me or psy­cho killers hunt­ing me. To go through the process of a first as­cent with some­one else is awe­some as you share ideas, beta, the­o­ries, and fight through the un­known to­gether. [Brad Weaver and I] were toe to toe for the FA, and it just hap­pened to be me to climb it first.”

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