Wild Coun­try Revo

Climbing - - GEAR BIG REVIEW -


The round body fea­tures a grooved in­er­tia wheel in­side that is de­signed to lock down on the rope when the rope spins the wheel at a high num­ber of rev­o­lu­tions per sec­ond, sim­i­lar to the way a seat­belt works.


Be­lay off an­chor (with proper tech­nique)


As the first bi-di­rec­tional as­sisted-brak­ing be­lay de­vice, the Revo prom­ises that a climber will never mis­thread the rope, which elim­i­nates one of the big­gest dan­gers in as­sisted-brak­ing de­vices. The Revo opens eas­ily, and the rope can be threaded with the climber’s end com­ing out of ei­ther side. Testers found that the de­vice never locked up while pulling out slack, mean­ing no short-rop­ing, even on long and fast clips. De­spite this, the de­vice locked up quickly when climbers, both light and heavy, fell. Be­cause the rope goes around a mov­ing cir­cu­lar cen­ter, it slides through the Revo with lit­tle re­sis­tance. Low­er­ing the climber only re­quires the be­layer to pull the rope down into the brake po­si­tion—no lever re­quired. The lock­ing mech­a­nism can’t be over­rid­den to leave the de­vice open, which is great for new be­lay­ers but could be prob­lem­atic for ad­vanced tech­niques. It is slightly bulky, but testers agreed that it was one of the best as­sisted-brak­ing be­lay de­vices they’ve used. Bonus: Be­cause the Revo doesn’t rely on fric­tion to brake, it per­formed equally well on thin and fat cords alike.


This be­lay de­vice may be the safest way to be­lay— pe­riod. Easy han­dling and in­creased safety are well worth the in­vest­ment.

$129; 8.6 oz.; 8.5–11mm; wild­coun­try.co.uk

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