The Tem­po­rary Ledge

Climbing - - CLINICS GUIDE'S TIP -

If your climber can’t un­weight the rope, you’ll need to build a “tem­po­rary ledge” to clip the lock­ing cara­biner in front of the de­vice. You'll need a shoul­der­length sling and a lock­ing cara­biner. Here’s how:

1. Clip a catas­tro­phe knot to your be­lay loop.

2. Build your au­to­block backup above the catas­tro­phe knot, on the brake strand.

3. Take an­other sling or cord and tie a fric­tion-hitch onto the loaded, climber’s strand of the rope; clip a lock­ing cara­biner to it.

4. Take the loose, back-side strand of the an­chor knot (the loose side of the rope go­ing into the stack) and tie a Munter-mule-over­hand (MMO) on the cara­biner and sling from step 3.

5. Lever the block­ing cara­biner in the be­lay de­vice back and forth. This al­lows slack to de­velop so the climber's weight comes onto the MMO/sling com­bi­na­tion .

6. With the slack, clip a lock­ing cara­biner in front of the be­lay de­vice and clip the climber’s strand into it; lock the cara­biner.

7. Re­lease the MMO and grad­u­ally load the de­vice, which is now in LSD lower mode. Once the au­to­block en­gages re­li­ably, re­move the sling/MMO, undo your catas­tro­phe knot, and con­tinue the LSD lower.

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