The Many Lives of Jamie Logan
After decades of pioneering free climbs, Jamie Logan embarked on her boldest adventure yet.
The boulderfields above the basecamp of India’s 22,520-foot Changabang are an unforgiving place. With 60 mph winds and subfreezing temps at 14,000 feet above sea level, it’s a harsh environment. But Jim Logan saw it as a refuge. In the days leading up to an attempt on the summit in 1979, Logan wore a tie-dyed cotton skirt he’d bought in the market in New Delhi.
Wandering around alone in the skirt offered him the freedom to wear women’s clothes without judgment. It was a desire he’d had at least since his teens, though he had no idea why. He had crossdressed a few times before in secret, but walking around in the open made Logan feel more like himself.
If you don’t know who Logan is, the short answer is: one of the great pioneers in North American free climbing. Today, Logan, age 70, is a successful architect in Boulder, Colorado, with a small firm that spe- cializes in energy-responsible design and structures with low carbon emissions. But in 1965, Logan was just another kid who’d come to Boulder ostensibly to attend the University of Colorado, but ended up climbing so much that he flunked out in his freshman year. From then on, he began to make his mark. In 1966 when he was 18 years old, Logan and partner Chris Fredericks made the first free ascent of Crack of Fear, an infamous three-pitch 5.10d offwidth that Royal Robbins and Layton Kor, among other strong climbers, failed to free.
FREE-CLIMBING AND GYMDESIGN PIONEER JAMIE LOGAN ON DREAM ON (5.11C/D), OCEANIC WALL, DREAM CANYON, CO.