Tran­si­tions, p.66

The Many Lives of Jamie Lo­gan

Climbing - - CONTENTS - By Julie El­li­son

Af­ter decades of pi­o­neer­ing free climbs, Jamie Lo­gan em­barked on her bold­est ad­ven­ture yet.

The boul­der­fields above the base­camp of In­dia’s 22,520-foot Changa­bang are an un­for­giv­ing place. With 60 mph winds and sub­freez­ing temps at 14,000 feet above sea level, it’s a harsh en­vi­ron­ment. But Jim Lo­gan saw it as a refuge. In the days lead­ing up to an at­tempt on the sum­mit in 1979, Lo­gan wore a tie-dyed cot­ton skirt he’d bought in the mar­ket in New Delhi.

Wan­der­ing around alone in the skirt of­fered him the free­dom to wear women’s clothes with­out judg­ment. It was a de­sire he’d had at least since his teens, though he had no idea why. He had cross­dressed a few times be­fore in se­cret, but walk­ing around in the open made Lo­gan feel more like him­self.

If you don’t know who Lo­gan is, the short an­swer is: one of the great pioneers in North Amer­i­can free climb­ing. To­day, Lo­gan, age 70, is a suc­cess­ful ar­chi­tect in Boul­der, Colorado, with a small firm that spe- cial­izes in en­ergy-re­spon­si­ble de­sign and struc­tures with low car­bon emis­sions. But in 1965, Lo­gan was just an­other kid who’d come to Boul­der os­ten­si­bly to at­tend the Univer­sity of Colorado, but ended up climb­ing so much that he flunked out in his fresh­man year. From then on, he be­gan to make his mark. In 1966 when he was 18 years old, Lo­gan and part­ner Chris Fred­er­icks made the first free as­cent of Crack of Fear, an in­fa­mous three-pitch 5.10d of­fwidth that Royal Rob­bins and Lay­ton Kor, among other strong climbers, failed to free.

FREE-CLIMB­ING AND GYMDESIGN PIONEER JAMIE LO­GAN ON DREAM ON (5.11C/D), OCEANIC WALL, DREAM CANYON, CO.

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