On the Wall
to oppose it? Look also at chalk patterns. Often, thumb prints will tell you which hand people take a hold with.
Prep work done, it’s now time to execute. Get on the rock and give it a go! USE YOUR LEGS
Weight your feet and legs. This might mean finding a frog position, heel hook, heel-toe cam, kneebar, or stem. Experiment with different body positions at rests. Onsighting requires energy conservation, so use techniques that decrease the load borne by your arms to create a cumulative benefit.
If you feel like you need a high right foot to reach that next hold, look for one where you would want it to be. Often, the rock is grippier than you think, and you might be able to use that tiny smear instead of that lower, more obvious foot.
REST AND INSPECT
Camp out on good holds or stances to re- cover. Allow your muscles and grip to relax, and let your skeleton do the work. Sag progressively in stages until your entire weight is on your frame. As you shake out, chalk up, breathe, and focus your gaze on one point; you might even close your eyes to eliminate wasted mental energy—it’s tiring scanning the rock and environment. Manipulate your breath by slowly inhaling and exhaling until it becomes inaudible and your heart rate slows.
Take advantage of this new perspective to evaluate the next section. Reach up to touch the holds, and then return to the rest. This provides a better idea of the holds’ quality and how you’ll grab them. At a certain point, it will be time to launch. As I’ve learned, it’s a fine line between resting just long enough versus too long. For me, “just right” is when my respiratory and heart rates have decreased significantly or even normalized, and the forearm pump has dissipated.
If staying at a rest requires excessive effort, I’ll climb through the fatigue, hoping to recover elsewhere. To rest on the go, climb with mini-shakes between holds. Watch videos of Michaela Kiersch: She locks off with her hips close to the wall and shakes her free arm, providing a quick recovery. The one caveat is to be either fully straight-armed or fully locked off—anything in between will be too strenuous. Also, after making clips, relax a little, exhale, and cop a quick shake.
Once you’re ready to leave a rest, increase your respiratory rate and allow your focus to shift with a soft gaze—to quickly scan handholds, feet, clips, and rope as needed. By being aware, you’ll decrease the chances of an unsafe fall and mitigate fear so you can go for it.
Your plan from the ground might not feel right on the go, so know when to hold ‘em and when to fold ‘em. That “jug” might actually be a sucker sloper, so try a crimp next to it—to find the best holds, walk your fingers over the rock as if reading Braille. Also, when possible, be willing to change sequences. I like to plan so that I have downclimbing and/or resequencing options. For instance, I rarely huck for a jug when there’s a crimp intermediate that lets me climb statically.
Finally, be precise and grab the holds with confidence. Anticipate the grip. You’ve held pinches, sidepulls, slopers, and crimps before, so imagine these common grips superimposed on the rock’s features. Try not to readjust your grip too much or gingerly grab holds— this wastes energy. Watch videos of Adam Ondra and Lynn Hill onsighting. They grab holds confidently, as if they’ve touched them hundreds of times before.
COMMIT TO MOVEMENT
Particularly in the meat of a crux, never hesitate. Sometimes the energy you expend dithering or downclimbing will sap you so much you can’t recover. It’s often best to keep moving forward, even though the moves seem uncomfortable or too powerful. Big moves, especially dynos to less-than-optimal holds, can be difficult to reverse. Ditto for moves with low feet or long reaches. Once you’ve committed, eliminate that voice in your head that says, “This is too hard,” and go for it. After all, you only get one chance.