BETA

Climbing - - THE CLIMB -

AP­PROACH: From the Gar­den trail­head in Keene Val­ley, hike 3.5 miles to John’s Brook Lodge ( an in­te­rior bunkhouse) and con­tinue past Bush­nell Falls and Slant Rock. After about 4 hours, you’ll pass a long, level stretch of mud bridged by rot­ting logs. Just after a trail sign for Haystack Mtn., look to your left ( south) for small cliffs vis­i­ble through the woods. That’s the top of the gorge. Head into the woods on a faint herd path that fol­lows up and right of the drainage, then an­gle right to the cliffs.

WHERE TO STAY: There’s vir­tu­ally no road­side camp­ing in Keene Val­ley, al­though there are pub­lic and pri­vate camp­grounds far­ther afield. The Keene Val­ley Hos­tel is nearby, but your bunk­mates might not dig your 3:30 a.m. wake-up. Back­pack­ers can camp at Slant Rock, about 7 miles in ( tent or lean- to). Bear can­is­ters are re­quired in the High Peaks back­coun­try,

GEAR: Full rack of cams and nuts, plus dou­ble ropes for most rap­pels (some routes may re­quire leav­ing slings). Hel­met manda­tory.

ROUTE INFO: adiron­dack­moun taineer­ing.com.

REC­OM­MENDED ROUTES: • Promised Land (5.8 PG-13; 410 feet): A di­verse route on the but­tress right of the Feline Wall. • Wreck of the Lichen Fitzger­ald (5.8+ PG-13; 470 feet): A stel­lar climb right of the Huge Scoop. • For Whom the Lichen Tolls (5.9 PG-13; 40 feet): A unique crack up a de­tached pin­na­cle . • The Pride (5.9- PG-13; 560 feet): A four-pitch gem, mostly in the 5.7 range. • Preda­tory In­stincts (5.9 R; 450 feet): This chal­leng­ing route climbs left of the Huge Scoop area, through a va­ri­ety of slabs and cracks.

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