ENGAGE THE THUMBS
Thumbs are a major player in helping us stay centered. We do this two ways: by closing a crimp and by squeezing.
Imagine hitting a crimp, controlling it, then looking up to see the next hold looking miles away. With an open- handed grip, you can only lock off at your chest. But with the thumb curled over the index finger, you can pull it down to your waist— plus, closing the grip allows for more inward tug, which equals better butt management. Just do so judiciously— crimping all the time is hard on your fingers; with practice, you can learn when to turn it on and when not to.
You can likewise squeeze a hold to control the center— to manage your hips and butt and keep them from falling out. ( Note: Your thumb won’t work well when you’re pumped, so aim to engage it consciously.)