Cordelette 101

Climbing - - BEGIN HERE CLINICS -

Us­ing your cordelette to equal­ize an an­chor re­quires a lit­tle prac­tice. Ide­ally, you’ll have three pieces in a ver­ti­cal ori­en­ta­tion, close to­gether.

Clip the cordelette through all three pieces, cre­at­ing one big loop. Now place your fin­gers on the two sec­tions of cord be­tween the three pieces. Pull these sec­tions down to meet the sec­tion of cord at the bot­tom of the loop. You should now have six pieces of cord (form­ing three loops) dan­gling be­low the lowest piece.

Next, pull the three loops tight to equal­ize ten­sion on the three pieces, and tie all the loops to­gether in a fig­ure eight on a bight ( see

photo at right). Voila— your mas­ter point!

When not us­ing the cordelette in the an­chor, coil it into four or five loops of the same size. Next, pull op­po­site ends of all the loops to cre­ate a long, straight mass, then tie an over­hand knot through the mass to re­duce the length and hold the coils to­gether for easy carry.

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