On March 5,


Joe Kin­der es­tab­lished a rare Amer­i­can 5.15 with his 70-foot Life of Vil­lains in the Hur­ri­cave in Hur­ri­cane, Utah. The climb, says Kin­der, is “phys­i­cal and con­tin­u­ous, with poor footholds and a hor­rid boul­der prob­lem at the end.” Kin­der, who has es­tab­lished over 100 routes, in­clud­ing four 5.14d’s in Ri­fle and around St. Ge­orge, bolted the line in 2012. He be­lieves LoV is sig­nif­i­cantly harder than any­thing he’s done, join­ing the US’s short list of 5.15s that in­cludes Jumbo Love (5.15b), Jaws II (5.15a), and Flex

Luthor (5.15a). “The USA can yield amaz­ing hard climbs, but it ei­ther takes hik­ing, see­ing the line that’s barely there, or send­ing a project that’s been bolted,” says Kin­der. “There are many routes just wait­ing for that spe­cial some­one, and that spe­cial some­one in the USA is pretty lim­ited.”

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