FIN­GER STA­BIL­ITY

Climbing - - SKILLS -

IN­STRUC­TIONS

Place a rub­ber band around your fin­ger­tips while main­tain­ing a straight wrist. Spread your fin­gers without bend­ing your wrist. Hold, then let your fin­gers col­lapse. You can per­form iso­met­ric holds at var­i­ous an­gles to mimic dif­fer­ent grips. Your hold times dur­ing the 30 sec­onds will vary based on your pre­ferred style— they should be rough- ly the same du­ra­tion you grip holds on rock ( see chart).

WHAT IT DOES

This ex­er­cise ac­ti­vates the ex­ten­sor mus­cles in the fin­gers. These mus­cles sup­port the fin­ger flex­ors, which are overused dur­ing climb­ing. The in­creased ac­ti­va­tion and sup­port from the ex­ten­sors can help pre­vent flexor overuse in­juries by more evenly dis­tribut­ing the load.

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