Place a rubber band around your fingertips while maintaining a straight wrist. Spread your fingers without bending your wrist. Hold, then let your fingers collapse. You can perform isometric holds at various angles to mimic different grips. Your hold times during the 30 seconds will vary based on your preferred style— they should be rough- ly the same duration you grip holds on rock ( see chart).
WHAT IT DOES
This exercise activates the extensor muscles in the fingers. These muscles support the finger flexors, which are overused during climbing. The increased activation and support from the extensors can help prevent flexor overuse injuries by more evenly distributing the load.