MAIDEN VOYAGE ( 5.12C), THE MAIDEN
Climber: Ian Cavanaugh
First ascent: Matt Wilder; 2012
This double-overhanging arête departs from the legendary Crow’s Nest, a tiny perch below the Maiden’s beastly summit overhang that has 100-plus feet of exposure plunging to either side. The climb begins on the “5.9” pitch of the West Overhang, then moves right across an improbable traverse before punching up the arête on forearm-blasting laybacks and slopers. I’ve only been on this route twice—once on a flash attempt (nearly pissed my pants), and then on redpoint. Both burns, I felt like I was going to throw up from the exposure. Moreover, you can only get back to the Crow’s Nest through logistical ninjutsu— fitting, as the first ascentionist, Matt Wilder, is a frequent competitor on American Ninja
Warrior. A direct start has yet to be redpointed. If V14 bouldering ten million feet above the ground is your thing, then have a go!