MAIDEN VOY­AGE ( 5.12C), THE MAIDEN

Climbing - - FROZEN IN TIME -

Climber: Ian Ca­vanaugh

First as­cent: Matt Wilder; 2012

This dou­ble-over­hang­ing arête de­parts from the leg­endary Crow’s Nest, a tiny perch be­low the Maiden’s beastly sum­mit over­hang that has 100-plus feet of ex­po­sure plung­ing to ei­ther side. The climb be­gins on the “5.9” pitch of the West Over­hang, then moves right across an im­prob­a­ble tra­verse be­fore punch­ing up the arête on fore­arm-blast­ing lay­backs and slop­ers. I’ve only been on this route twice—once on a flash at­tempt (nearly pissed my pants), and then on red­point. Both burns, I felt like I was go­ing to throw up from the ex­po­sure. More­over, you can only get back to the Crow’s Nest through lo­gis­ti­cal nin­jutsu— fit­ting, as the first ascentionist, Matt Wilder, is a fre­quent com­peti­tor on Amer­i­can Ninja

War­rior. A di­rect start has yet to be red­pointed. If V14 boul­der­ing ten mil­lion feet above the ground is your thing, then have a go!

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