HASTA LA HUECO (5.13B; THREE PITCHES), THE MAIDEN

Climbing - - FROZEN IN TIME -

Climbers: Steve An­necone and Mark Roth

First as­cent: Bret Ruck­man, Steve An­necone (P1 and P2: 2013; P3: 2016)

From the west, the Maiden re­sem­bles a co­bra head rear­ing to strike; from the north, a broad, rampy face; from the east, a sin­u­ous side­walk in the sky; and from the south, a broad, scooped am­phithe­ater, bulging and wild and pep­pered with hue­cos and in­cip­i­ent cracks. In the mid­dle of the south face, a bril­liant panel of flat, white­washed rock leads to a wavy brown head­wall. Hasta

la Hueco climbs this. A pitch of scruffy 5.9+ trad leads to the comfy Stone Oven Be­lay. The sec­ond pitch (5.12d) be­gins with jug hue­cos; while the pock­ets all look good from be­low, they be­come ever more slopey and dis­tant as you climb. Af­ter much suss­ing, Bret Ruck­man and Steve An­necone freed the third pitch at 5.13b in 2016. Three bolts of crux lead to sus­tained 5.12, then some 5.10/5.11 as the an­gle eases. That same year, Phil Gru­ber and Lynn Hill linked the sec­ond pitch into the third for a 160-foot mega-ex­cur­sion. With an hour-plus ap­proach, the Maiden sees more wild tur­keys than climbers, part of the quiet ap­peal of this re­mote, un­tram­meled zone.

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