HASTA LA HUECO (5.13B; THREE PITCHES), THE MAIDEN
Climbers: Steve Annecone and Mark Roth
First ascent: Bret Ruckman, Steve Annecone (P1 and P2: 2013; P3: 2016)
From the west, the Maiden resembles a cobra head rearing to strike; from the north, a broad, rampy face; from the east, a sinuous sidewalk in the sky; and from the south, a broad, scooped amphitheater, bulging and wild and peppered with huecos and incipient cracks. In the middle of the south face, a brilliant panel of flat, whitewashed rock leads to a wavy brown headwall. Hasta
la Hueco climbs this. A pitch of scruffy 5.9+ trad leads to the comfy Stone Oven Belay. The second pitch (5.12d) begins with jug huecos; while the pockets all look good from below, they become ever more slopey and distant as you climb. After much sussing, Bret Ruckman and Steve Annecone freed the third pitch at 5.13b in 2016. Three bolts of crux lead to sustained 5.12, then some 5.10/5.11 as the angle eases. That same year, Phil Gruber and Lynn Hill linked the second pitch into the third for a 160-foot mega-excursion. With an hour-plus approach, the Maiden sees more wild turkeys than climbers, part of the quiet appeal of this remote, untrammeled zone.