THULSA DOOM ( 5.12C/ D), OVER­HANG ROCK, BEAR CANYON

Climbing - - FROZEN IN TIME -

Climber: Matt Reeser

First as­cent: Chan­dler Van Schaack, Shaun Reed; 2016

The name Over­hang Rock will at first be puz­zling to any­one who climbs on its west face, a broad ver­ti­cal panel that looks like an over­sized drive-in-movie screen. Here, the style is crimpy, techy, and old-school—the “over­hang” is in­stead on the east face. City plan­ner Chan­dler Van Schaack has been a driv­ing force at Over­hang Rock, adding three mega lines— Thulsa Doom, Honey Badger (5.13a), and Ouroboros (5.12d)—all rope-stretch­ers fill­ing in the blanks around the wall’s OG long sport climb, Snake Watch­ing (5.13a), put up in 1989 by Jim Surette. Thulsa Doom climbs the airy left arête, with a roof crux down low fol­lowed by con­sis­tent ac­tion. Like all the routes on this wall, the holds are tiny but pos­i­tive—you just have to keep your shit to­gether for a long, long, long, long time.

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