THULSA DOOM ( 5.12C/ D), OVERHANG ROCK, BEAR CANYON
Climber: Matt Reeser
First ascent: Chandler Van Schaack, Shaun Reed; 2016
The name Overhang Rock will at first be puzzling to anyone who climbs on its west face, a broad vertical panel that looks like an oversized drive-in-movie screen. Here, the style is crimpy, techy, and old-school—the “overhang” is instead on the east face. City planner Chandler Van Schaack has been a driving force at Overhang Rock, adding three mega lines— Thulsa Doom, Honey Badger (5.13a), and Ouroboros (5.12d)—all rope-stretchers filling in the blanks around the wall’s OG long sport climb, Snake Watching (5.13a), put up in 1989 by Jim Surette. Thulsa Doom climbs the airy left arête, with a roof crux down low followed by consistent action. Like all the routes on this wall, the holds are tiny but positive—you just have to keep your shit together for a long, long, long, long time.