THE NORTH­EAST

Climbing - - FROZEN IN TIME -

There are count­less boul­ders hid­den in the trees of New Eng­land. Gran­ite forms the ma­jor­ity of the rock here, though the Gunks fea­tures quartzite and Rum­ney hosts a pe­cu­liar schist. The cli­mate can be tricky, so catch the cool crisp temps of fall, avoid the del­uge in spring, and check the fore­cast in win­ter, when it can be ei­ther crispy or heinous.

CON­FI­DENT MAN (V11), PAWTUCKAWAY, NEW HAMP­SHIRE

The cen­ter of New Eng­land boul­der­ing, the gran­ite blocks in the New Hamp­shire for­est have al­lowed top climbers like Dave Graham to cut their teeth on sav­age crimps. At Pawtuckaway, Tim Kem­ple claimed one of the best dou­ble-digit lines in the North­east, an over­hang­ing se­ries of moves with a com­mit­ting exit. It’s a must-do at the grade—as­sum­ing the swarms of black files don't carry you away firts!

Nearby clas­sics: Over­looked (V4), Ride the Light­ning (V6), Dope­man (V8)

NEW PAIR OF GLASSES (V7), SHAWANGUNKS, NEW YORK

The Gunks was at the fore­front of high-end free-climb­ing un­til the early 1980s, and at­tracted strong climbers like Gill and the lo­cal Rich Gold­stone. Right on the Car­riage Road, the 30-foot

New Pair of Glasses stand-starts with high holds. The low crux leads to a high but man­age­able exit on the Gunks’ fa­mous hor­i­zon­tals. FAist Ivan Greene be­stowed the name to point out how a new vi­sion was all that was needed to see the area’s abun­dant boul­der­ing po­ten­tial.

Nearby clas­sics: The Mil­lion Dol­lar Prob­lem (V5), The Gill Egg (V4)

POUND CRACK (V1), RUM­NEY, NEW HAMP­SHIRE

Rum­ney is known for its punchy, boul­dery routes, among the most fa­mous be­ing The Fly (5.14d or V14). Be­low all the des­per­ates at the main cliff you'll find amaz­ing mod­er­ates, es­pe­cially Pound Crack, an 18-foot split­ter with a jug in the mid­dle—per­fect recre­ation on an au­tumn day.

Nearby clas­sics: Black­jack Crack (V2), Um­brella Tra­verse (V2), Satan on a Half­shell (V10)

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