There are countless boulders hidden in the trees of New England. Granite forms the majority of the rock here, though the Gunks features quartzite and Rumney hosts a peculiar schist. The climate can be tricky, so catch the cool crisp temps of fall, avoid the deluge in spring, and check the forecast in winter, when it can be either crispy or heinous.
CONFIDENT MAN (V11), PAWTUCKAWAY, NEW HAMPSHIRE
The center of New England bouldering, the granite blocks in the New Hampshire forest have allowed top climbers like Dave Graham to cut their teeth on savage crimps. At Pawtuckaway, Tim Kemple claimed one of the best double-digit lines in the Northeast, an overhanging series of moves with a committing exit. It’s a must-do at the grade—assuming the swarms of black files don't carry you away firts!
Nearby classics: Overlooked (V4), Ride the Lightning (V6), Dopeman (V8)
NEW PAIR OF GLASSES (V7), SHAWANGUNKS, NEW YORK
The Gunks was at the forefront of high-end free-climbing until the early 1980s, and attracted strong climbers like Gill and the local Rich Goldstone. Right on the Carriage Road, the 30-foot
New Pair of Glasses stand-starts with high holds. The low crux leads to a high but manageable exit on the Gunks’ famous horizontals. FAist Ivan Greene bestowed the name to point out how a new vision was all that was needed to see the area’s abundant bouldering potential.
Nearby classics: The Million Dollar Problem (V5), The Gill Egg (V4)
POUND CRACK (V1), RUMNEY, NEW HAMPSHIRE
Rumney is known for its punchy, bouldery routes, among the most famous being The Fly (5.14d or V14). Below all the desperates at the main cliff you'll find amazing moderates, especially Pound Crack, an 18-foot splitter with a jug in the middle—perfect recreation on an autumn day.
Nearby classics: Blackjack Crack (V2), Umbrella Traverse (V2), Satan on a Halfshell (V10)