DMN DRAGON CAMS (7 AND 8)
Wedging your body into a 6-inch crack, switching between handstacks, chickenwings, and excessive tryhard, is daunting enough. Add in a tipped-out cam, and the process becomes downright terrifying. You need specialized big-crack pro to keep the offwidth fear at bay so you can focus on the physical battle.
DMM offers a strong protection solution for the überwide with their new No. 7 and 8 Dragon Cams. These colorcoded, lightweight units (weighing 13 ounces and 18 ounces, respectively) provide big range thanks to their single-stem, double-axle design: No. 7 covers 3.47–5.85 inches, while No. 8 covers 4.57–7.7. During testing on some Boulder Canyon slick, gnarly wideness—old-school “5.9s” on Castle Rock—the extendable sling helped minimize walking, a savior when you’re high above a single piece that can easily umbrella. DMM also placed the ergonomic trigger in just the right spot. Levering between it and the hot-forged thumb press meant smooth, easy camming action, while the trigger is cannily situated such that the cam lobes won’t smash your fingers when retracted, a common prob- lem with larger spring-loaded camming devices. I also appreciated the bite you get with the lobes themselves, which use an aggressive Triple Grip tread pattern to minimize walking. This was particularly welcome on the water- and rock-shoepolished granite of Castle Rock, and would be good in softer desert sandstone as well.