TRANGO BETA STICK EVO

Climbing - - ESSENTIALS - KEVIN CORRIGAN

Af­ter spend­ing a month with the Beta Stick EVO, it’s be­come an in­valu­able ad­di­tion to my sport-climb­ing kit for its length, ver­sa­til­ity, and high qual­ity. I tested the stan­dard model, which weighs 21 oz and ex­tends from 29 inches to 12 feet—more than enough length to reach the first and of­ten sec­ond bolts on any of the Front Range climbs that don’t re­quire gear. (The com­pact ver­sion weighs 15 oz and goes from 21.5 inches to 8 feet—still plenty long enough for bolt one.) On the per­for­mance side, two ridges add sta­bil­ity and pre­vent twist­ing, while snap-locks al­low for easy ad­just­ment. The stick does flex when fully ex­tended, but it’s man­age­able. The gate spring can be ad­justed to fit dif­fer­ent cara­bin­ers, but per­for­mance did vary by biner. For ex­am­ple, for the 20-foot-high first bolt of Alpine Moe in Up­per Dream Canyon, I had to come in at an an­gle to ac­com­mo­date the biner and hanger an­gles, mak­ing the clip awk­ward. How­ever, other cara­bin­ers al­lowed for eas­ier ori­en­ta­tions.

The Beta Stick EVO is loaded with smart fea­tures: A hole in the head lets you at­tach the stick to your har­ness so you can clip up your proj while on route (don’t fall like this). A hook on the bot­tom lets you pull a bight of rope down to keep a high bolt pre-clipped. And the spring gate holds a loop of rope, which you can use to lasso-clip an in-situ draw or, with some com­plex­ity, re­move an er­rant quick­draw without climb­ing up to it.

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