Mugs Stump’s Climbs: A Time­line

Climbing - - ASCENDANT -

1980:

With Mar­ius Marstad, made a 19- hour as­cent of the Su­per Couloir on Fitzroy, Patag­o­nia. In spring, climbed Pa­cific Ocean Wall ( VI 5.10 A5) on El Cap­i­tan with Sullivan, mak­ing the fifth as­cent of the world’s then- hard­est aid route.

1983:

At­tempted, in alpine style, the huge West Face of Gasher­brum IV in the Karako­ram Hi­malaya, Pak­istan, with Michael Kennedy. In 3.5 days, the pair sur­passed the high point of pre­vi­ous fixe­drope at­tempts. A storm pinned them down for five nights at 23,000 feet, forc­ing a re­treat.

1986:

Guided Aconcagua and the Cassin Ridge. Made the first of three at­tempts on the East But­tress of Mount John­son in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska, with Lyle Dean. Climbed Kedar Dome and at­tempted Shivling in In­dia with two clients; af­ter­ward, made the first of two at­tempts on the East Face of Meru, with Dean.

1989:

Spent eight days pinned down in a por­taledge on a new wall route on the Eye Tooth, Alaska, with Con­rad Anker. On his last trip to Antarc­tica, made solo FAs of the South­west Face ( 5.7; 2,200 me­ters) of Mount Gardiner and the West Face ( 5.9; 2,500 me­ters) of Mount Tyree.

1981:

First as­cent of the East Face of the Moose’s Tooth ( Dance of the Woo Li Mas

ters) in frigid con­di­tions in March, with Jim Brid­well. The pair then flew in to the Kahiltna Glacier in­tent on the North But­tress of Mount Hunter, but cold pre­vented an at­tempt. Stump re­turned to the Hunter route in May with Paul Aubrey and climbed it to its in­ter­sec­tion with the up­per ridge, nam­ing it Moon­flower But­tress.

1984:

At­tempted the North­east But­tress of Tha­lay Sa­gar in the Gan­gotri re­gion, In­dia, with Laura O’Brien. Ex­ten­sive wa­ter­fall climb­ing in Tel­luride, Colorado, in­clud­ing very fast as­cents of Bri­dalveil Falls and the Ames Ice Hose. Many dif­fi­cult cracks ( 5.11 and 5.12) in In­dian Creek, Utah, in­clud­ing sev­eral first as­cents.

1988:

On his third Antarc­tic trip, made 26 first as­cents in the Gothic Moun­tains with his brother Ed Stump, Paul Fitzger­ald, and Dean. Later in the year, made an­other at­tempt on the East Face of Meru, with Steve Quin­lan, Billy West­bay, Robin Wax­man, and Doug Snively.

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