GRAVE­YARD SHIFT

Climbing - - PERFECT TENS -

Dustin Port­z­line stretches it out on

Grave­yard Shift, a route that, if 5.10 ever had an exit exam, would be it! Don’t be put off by the name, how­ever; it ref­er­ences the overnighters worked by one of the first as­cen­tion­ists, not the route’s po­ten­tial lethal­ity.

Grave­yard Shift has it all: small but solid gear that’s al­ways a lit­tle far­ther away than you’d like, slightly worse holds than you’d hoped for, and a de­cep­tively easy roof guard­ing the fin­ish. There re­ally isn’t much more that could be fit into a clas­sic 80foot tra­di­tional pitch.

The route’s open­ing 30 feet isn’t tech­ni­cally hard ( 5.8+), but the moves are in­se­cure, and dodgy gear means that you’re into ground­fall ter­ri­tory un­til at­tain­ing a small no- hands rest. Af­ter this, del­i­cate foot­work leads to a bal­ancey pull on small holds pro­tected by a dif­fi­cult- to- place small cam. Even past this crux the route re­mains hard, but as the pump grows so do the holds through the fi­nal shield of rock. A crit­i­cal .75 cam over the lip pro­tects the im­pos­ing fi­nal roof, which at 5.8 makes for a sat­is­fy­ing vic­tory lap be­fore the chains.

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