Dustin Portzline stretches it out on
Graveyard Shift, a route that, if 5.10 ever had an exit exam, would be it! Don’t be put off by the name, however; it references the overnighters worked by one of the first ascentionists, not the route’s potential lethality.
Graveyard Shift has it all: small but solid gear that’s always a little farther away than you’d like, slightly worse holds than you’d hoped for, and a deceptively easy roof guarding the finish. There really isn’t much more that could be fit into a classic 80foot traditional pitch.
The route’s opening 30 feet isn’t technically hard ( 5.8+), but the moves are insecure, and dodgy gear means that you’re into groundfall territory until attaining a small no- hands rest. After this, delicate footwork leads to a balancey pull on small holds protected by a difficult- to- place small cam. Even past this crux the route remains hard, but as the pump grows so do the holds through the final shield of rock. A critical .75 cam over the lip protects the imposing final roof, which at 5.8 makes for a satisfying victory lap before the chains.