Paula Cardi­gan

Creative Knitting - - COMFY & COZY - THERESE CHYNOWETH De­sign by

De­sign by Therese Chynoweth

“Go­ing side­ways” doesn’t need to be a bad thing. Once in a while it’s nice to do things a bit dif­fer­ently. This cardi­gan is worked from side to side with lace in­serts added for ex­tra width and swing along the lower edge of the body. Gauge

20 sts and 28 rows/rnds = 4 inches/

10cm in St st. To save time, take time to check

gauge.

Spe­cial Ab­bre­vi­a­tions

Lifted Left In­crease (LLI): In­sert LH nee­dle into left leg of the st 1 row be­low the st just worked, then knit that loop with­out twist­ing— 1 st inc. Slip marker (sm): Slip marker from

LH nee­dle to RH nee­dle.

Spe­cial Tech­nique

Ja­panese Short Rows: For short rows worked on RS rows: Work to the spot to turn the row, then turn. Slip the first st and place a lock­ing marker on the work­ing yarn, purl the next st, then work to the end of the WS row or to turn­ing point on WS row, as in­structed. When work­ing past the turn on the next RS row, work to the turn­ing point, lift the marker and place the loop on the LH nee­dle with­out twist­ing it and re­move the marker, then knit the loop and the next st tog. For short rows worked on WS rows: Work to the spot to turn the row, then turn. Slip the first st and place a lock­ing marker on the work­ing yarn, knit the next st, then work to the end of the RS row or to turn­ing point on RS row, as in­structed. When work­ing past the turn on the next WS row, work to the turn­ing point, slip the next st pwise, lift the marker and place the loop on the LH nee­dle with­out twist­ing it and re­move the marker, re­turn the slipped st to the LH nee­dle and purl it and the loop tog.

Pat­tern Notes

Body of cardi­gan is worked from side to side in 1 piece, us­ing short rows to add the lace in­serts and shape the front neck edges. The sleeves are worked from the arm­hole down, be­gin­ning with short rows to work a short sleeve cap, then joined to work in the round to the cuff. Row gauge is as im­por­tant as the stitch gauge; if your row gauge is not the same as in­di­cated in the pat­tern, you may need to ad­just the num­ber of rows/rounds you work be­tween in­creases and de­creases.

All short rows are worked us­ing Ja­panese short rows. A tu­to­rial for the ba­sic tech­nique to work Ja­panese short rows can be found on YouTube at https://www.you tube.com/watch?v=h_vcXbu0_B4. Slip all stitches purl­wise un­less

in­structed oth­er­wise. When work­ing the lace in­serts, you’ll need only 1 lock­ing marker for the first half of the in­sert, but will need 6 lock­ing mark­ers for the 2nd half of the in­sert. The lace in­serts, front neck shap­ing, shoul­der shap­ing and arm­holes are all worked si­mul­ta­ne­ously. Read through the pat­tern care­fully to en­sure that all shap­ing is worked cor­rectly.

Body

Left Front Us­ing longer cir­cu­lar nee­dle, cast on 135 (137, 140, 142, 145, 147) sts. Do not join. Setup Row (WS): Knit to last 6 sts, pm,

[k1, p1] 3 times. Shape Neck Short Row 1 (RS): [K1, p1] 3 times, sm, k68 (66, 69, 67, 70, 68) sts, turn. Pm in cast-on edge at turn for a ref­er­ence point when mea­sur­ing. Short Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, place lock­ing marker on work­ing yarn, purl to marker, sm, [k1, p1] 3 times. Short Row 3: [K1, p1] 3 times, sm, knit to where work was turned, lift lock­ing marker and place loop on LH nee­dle, knit loop and next st tog, k3 more sts, turn. Rep last 2 short rows 9 (10, 10, 11, 11, 12) more times, work­ing [4 more sts (in­clud­ing the st knit tog with the loop)] 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5) times, then work­ing [6 more sts] 7 times. Work 1 more short row on WS, then work 2 rows over all sts, lift­ing last loop, plac­ing it on LH nee­dle and knit­ting it tog with next st. At the same time, when piece mea­sures 21/2 inches from cast-on edge at ref­er­ence marker, work lace in­sert as fol­lows:

Lace In­sert Short Row 1 (RS): [K1, p1] 3 times, sm,

[yo, ssk] 3 times, k1, turn. Short Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20 and 22 (WS): Sl 1, place lock­ing marker on work­ing yarn, purl to marker, sm, [k1, p1] 3 times. Short Row 3: [K1, p1] 3 times, sm, [k2­tog, yo] 8 times, pick­ing up loop and work­ing it tog with the k2­tog when you reach the gap, k1, turn. Short Row 5: [K1, p1] 3 times, sm, [yo, ssk] 13 times, pick­ing up loop and work­ing it tog with the ssk when you reach the gap, k1, turn. Short Row 7: [K1, p1] 3 times, sm, [k2­tog, yo] 18 times, pick­ing up loop and work­ing it tog with the k2­tog when you reach the gap, k1, turn. Short Row 9: [K1, p1] 3 times, sm, [yo, ssk] 23 times, pick­ing up loop and work­ing it tog with the ssk when you reach the gap, k1, turn. Short Row 11: [K1, p1] 3 times, sm,

[k2­tog, yo] 28 times, k1, turn. Short Row 13: [K1, p1] 3 times, sm,

[yo, ssk] 23 times, k1, turn. Short Row 15: [K1, p1] 3 times, sm,

[k2­tog, yo] 18 times, k1, turn. Short Row 17: [K1, p1] 3 times, sm,

[yo, ssk] 13 times, k1, turn. Short Row 19: [K1, p1] 3 times, sm,

[k2­tog, yo] 8 times, k1, turn. Short Row 21: [K1, p1] 3 times, sm,

[yo, ssk] 3 times, k1, turn. Next Row (RS): [K1, p1] 3 times, sm, knit to end of row (or to next short­row turn while still work­ing neck shap­ing), lift­ing all lock­ing mark­ers, plac­ing loops on LH nee­dle and knit­ting them tog with the next st. Shape Shoul­der When front neck shap­ing is com­plete, work 4 more rows over all sts, end­ing with a WS row. Dec Row (RS): Work to last 3 sts, ssk,

k1—1 st dec. Rep Dec Row [ev­ery 6 (6, 6, 8, 8, 10) rows] 2 (4, 6, 4, 6, 2) more times, then [ev­ery 4 (4, 0, 6, 0, 8) rows] 4 (2, 0, 2, 0, 4) times—128 (130, 133, 135, 138, 140) sts rem.

At the same time, when 41/2 (5, 51/2, 6, 61/2, 7) inches of St st have been worked af­ter the first lace in­sert, end­ing with a WS row, work an­other lace in­sert. Con­tinue work­ing lace in­serts [ev­ery 41/2 (5, 51/2, 6, 61/2, 7) inches] 6 more times—to­tal of 8 lace in­serts: 2 across left front, 4 across back and 2 across right front. At the same time, when piece mea­sures 9 (10, 103/4, 12, 13, 14) inches from cast-on edge at ref­er­ence marker, end­ing with a RS row, cre­ate arm­hole as fol­lows: Cre­ate Arm­hole Row 1 (WS): Bind off 35 (37, 40, 42, 45, 47) sts for arm­hole, then work to end of row—93 sts rem. Row 2 (RS): Work to end of row, then use back­ward loop method (see page 110) to cast on 35 (37, 40, 42, 45, 47) sts—128 (130, 133, 135, 138, 140) sts. Note: To pre­vent the bot­tom of the arm­hole from stretch­ing out of shape as you con­tinue work­ing, cut a piece of yarn ap­prox 6 inches longer than the arm­hole depth for your size and baste the bind-off and cast-on edges of the arm­hole tog af­ter work­ing 4 rows af­ter the cast-on.

Back

Shape Left Shoul­der Work 3 (3, 5, 3, 5, 7) rows over all sts. Inc Row (RS): Work to last sts, LLI,

k1—1 st inc. Rep Inc Row [ev­ery 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8) rows] 4 (2, 6, 2, 6, 4) more times, then [ev­ery 6 (6, 0, 8, 0, 10) rows] 2 (4, 0, 4, 0, 2) times—135 (137, 140, 142, 145, 147) sts. Work even un­til back mea­sures 53/4 (61/4, 7, 8, 9, 93/4) inches, end­ing with a RS row. Shape Neck Next Row (WS): Bind off 2 sts, then work to end of row—133 (135, 138, 140, 143, 145) sts rem. Dec Row (RS): Work to last 3 sts, ssk,

k1—1 st dec. Rep Dec Row on next RS row—131

(133, 136, 138, 141, 143) sts rem. Work even un­til back neck mea­sures ap­prox 6 (7, 71/2, 71/2, 71/2, 8) inches, end­ing with a WS row. Inc Row (RS): Work to last st, LLI,

k1—1 st inc. Rep Inc Row on next RS row, then cast on 2 sts at beg of next WS row—135 (137, 140, 142, 145, 147) sts. Shape Right Shoul­der Work 6 rows over all sts, end­ing with

a WS row. Dec Row (RS): Work to last 3 sts, ssk,

k1—1 st dec. Rep Dec Row [ev­ery 6 (6, 6, 8, 8, 10) rows] 2 (4, 6, 4, 6, 2) more times, then [ev­ery 4 (4, 0, 6, 0, 8) rows] 4 (2, 0, 2, 0, 4) times—128 (130, 133, 135, 138, 140) sts rem. Work even un­til back mea­sures 18 (20, 22, 24, 26, 28) inches from left arm­hole cast-on edge, end­ing with a RS row. Cre­ate Arm­hole Row 1 (WS): Bind off 35 (37, 40, 42, 45, 47) sts for arm­hole, then work to end of row—93 sts rem. Row 2 (RS): Work to end of row, then use back­ward loop method to cast on 35 (37, 40, 42, 45, 47) sts—128 (130, 133, 135, 138, 140) sts. Right Front Shape Shoul­der Work 3 (3, 5, 3, 5, 7) rows over all sts. Inc Row (RS): Work to last sts, LLI,

k1—1 st inc. Rep Inc Row [ev­ery 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8) rows] 4 (2, 6, 2, 6, 4) more times, then [ev­ery 6 (6, 0, 8, 0, 10) rows] 2 (4, 0, 4, 0, 2) times—135 (137, 140, 142, 145, 147) sts. Work even un­til right front mea­sures 53/4 (61/4, 7, 8, 9, 93/4) inches from right arm­hole cast-on edge, end­ing with a WS row. Note: There should be 7 lace in­serts, and the final in­sert will be worked while shap­ing the right front neck edge. Shape Neck Short Row 1 (RS): Work to last 7 sts,

turn. Short Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, place lock­ing marker on work­ing yarn, work to end of row. Short Row 3: Work to 6 sts be­fore last

turn, turn. Rep [last 2 short rows] 9 (10, 10, 11, 11, 12) more times, work­ing [6 fewer sts] 6 more times, then [4 fewer sts] 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) times. Work 1 more WS short row. Next row (RS): [K1, p1] 3 times, purl to end of row, pick­ing up lock­ing mark­ers and plac­ing loops on LH nee­dle, then work­ing them tog with the next st. Bind off all sts kwise.

Neck­band

Re­move bast­ing at arm­holes if used. Sew shoul­der seams. With longer cir­cu­lar nee­dle and RS fac­ing, pick up and knit 71 (69, 72, 70, 73, 71) sts along right front (1 st in each st), pick up and knit 3 more sts and bind off the first 2 sts for but­ton­hole, pick up and knit 61 (65, 65, 69, 69, 73) sts along right front neck, 39 (41, 43, 43, 43, 45) sts along back neck, then 135 (137, 140, 142, 145, 147) sts along left front—307 (313, 321, 325, 331, 337) sts. Next Row (WS): *P1, k1; rep from * to gap; use back­ward loop method to cast on 2 sts over gap, then con­tinue in rib to end of row, end­ing with p1—309 (315, 323, 327, 333, 339) sts. Work 2 more rows in es­tab­lished rib. Bind off all sts in pat.

Sleeves

With shorter cir­cu­lar nee­dle and RS fac­ing, beg at bot­tom of arm­hole, pick up and knit 1 st in bot­tom of arm­hole, then 70 (74, 80, 84, 90, 94) sts along arm­hole edge (1 st in each st around)—71 (75, 81, 85, 91, 95) sts. Pm for beg of rnd.

Shape Cap Short Row 1 (RS): K40 (43, 47, 51, 55,

58), turn. Short Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, place lock­ing marker on work­ing yarn, p7 (9, 11, 15, 17, 19), turn. Short Row 3: Sl 1, place lock­ing marker on work­ing yarn, k12 (14, 16, 20, 22, 24), pick­ing up loop and work­ing it tog with the next st as k2­tog when you reach the gap, turn. Short Row 4: Sl 1, place lock­ing marker on work­ing yarn, p17 (19, 21, 25, 27, 29), pick­ing up loop and work­ing it tog with the next st as ssk when you reach the gap, turn. Short Rows 5–10: Sl 1, place lock­ing marker on work­ing yarn, work 5 more sts than pre­vi­ous row, pick­ing up loop and work­ing it tog with the next st when you reach the gap, turn. Short Rows 11–14: Sl 1, place lock­ing marker on work­ing yarn, work 4 more sts than pre­vi­ous row, pick­ing up loop and work­ing it tog with the next st when you reach the gap, turn. Short Row 15: Sl 1, place lock­ing marker on work­ing yarn, work to end of row, pick­ing up loop and work­ing it tog with the next st when you reach the gap. Do not turn. Rnd 1: K2­tog, knit to 1 st be­fore gap, sl 1, pick up loop and place it on the LH nee­dle, re­turn slipped st back to LH nee­dle, work the loop and next st tog as ssk, then knit to end of rnd—70 (74, 80, 84, 90, 94) sts rem. Con­tinue in St st and work 5 (4, 4, 4, 3,

3) rnds even. Dec Rnd: K1, k2­tog, knit to last 3 sts,

ssk, k1—2 sts dec. Rep Dec Rnd [ev­ery 6 (5, 5, 5, 4, 4) rnds] 4 (16, 8, 4, 17, 14) more times, then [ev­ery 5 (0, 4, 4, 3, 3) rnds] 11 (0, 10, 15, 4, 8) times—38 (40, 42, 44, 46, 48) sts rem. Note: Change to dpns when there are too few sts to work com­fort­ably on cir­cu­lar nee­dle. Work even un­til piece mea­sures 131/2 inches from bot­tom of arm­hole or to de­sired length. Work in 1x1 rib for 31/2 inches. Bind off all sts in pat.

Fin­ish­ing

Weave in ends. Block to schematic mea­sure­ments. Sew but­ton to left front op­po­site

but­ton­hole.

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