Heart­felt Mitts

Crochet! - - Pay It Forward - D E S I G N B Y K R I S T I N K AU T EN

FIN­ISHED SIZE

One size fits most.

FIN­ISHED MEA­SURE­MENTS

81/2 inches long x 7 inches in cir­cum­fer­ence

MA­TE­RI­ALS

• Jo­joland Melody Su­per­wash su­per fine ( fin­ger­ing) weight su­per­wash wool yarn ( 13/4 oz/ 220 yds/ 50g per ball):

1 ball # MS38 red­dish plum • Size G/ 6/ 4mm cro­chet hook or size needed

to ob­tain gauge • Ta­pes­try nee­dle • Stitch marker

GAUGE

7 puff V- sts = 4 inches; Rnds 1–16 on Mitt Body = 4 inches

PAT­TERN NOTES

Re­fer to Stitch Di­a­grams as needed. Join with slip stitch as in­di­cated un­less oth­er­wise stated. Chain-3 at be­gin­ning of round counts as first dou­ble cro­chet un­less oth­er­wise stated. Slip stitch(es) at be­gin­ning of round do not count as stitches un­less oth­er­wise stated.

SPE­CIAL STITCHES

First foun­da­tion sin­gle cro­chet (first foun­da­tion sc): Ch 2, in­sert hook into 2nd ch from hook, yo, pull up lp, yo, pull through 1 lp on hook (see il­lus­tra­tion A— ch-1 com­pleted), yo, pull through all lps on hook (see il­lus­tra­tions B and C—sc com­pleted). Next foun­da­tion sin­gle cro­chet (next foun­da­tion sc): [In­sert hook in last ch-1 made (see il­lus­tra­tion A), yo, pull up lp, yo, pull through 1 lp on hook (see il­lus­tra­tion B— ch-1 com­pleted), yo, pull through all lps on hook (see il­lus­tra­tions C and D—sc com­pleted)] as in­di­cated in in­struc­tions. Shell: (3 dc, ch 6, sl st in last dc made, ch 9, sl st in same dc, ch 6, sl st in same dc, 2 dc) as in­di­cated in in­struc­tions. Puff stitch ( puff st): ( Yo, pull up lp) 4 times as in­di­cated in in­struc­tions, yo, pull through 8 lps on hook, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook. Puff stitch V- stitch (puff V- st): ( Puff st— see Spe­cial Stitches, ch 1, puff st) as in­di­cated in in­struc­tions.

MITT

Make 2.

Cuff

Row 1 (RS): First foun­da­tion sc (see Spe­cial Stitches), 41 next foun­da­tion sc (see Spe­cial Stitches), turn. (42 sc)

Rows 2– 4: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first st, sk next st, shell (see Spe­cial Stitches) in next st, sk next st, sc in

Warm hands, warm heart! Give the sim­ple gift of fin­ger­less mitts to some­one who warms your heart!

next st, [sk next st, shell in next st, sk next st, sc in next st] 8 times, sk next st, shell in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in each of last 2 sts, sl st in first sc to form ring, fas­ten off. (12 sc, 10 shells) Turn Cuff WS out. Work­ing through both thick­nesses, evenly sp 5 sc along short edges of Cuff to seam. Fas­ten off. Turn Cuff RS out.

Body

Rnd 1: Now work­ing in rnds with RS fac­ing, join (see Pat­tern Notes) in any ch on op­po­site side of foun­da­tion sc sts, ch 3 (see Pat­tern Notes), dc in each rem st around, join in top of beg ch-3. (42 dc)

Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in next st and in each rem st around, join in top of beg ch-3.

Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, [ch 1, sk next st, dc in each of next 3 sts] 9 times, ch 1, sk next st, dc in each of last 3 sts, ch 1, join in top of beg ch-3. (33 dc, 11 ch-1 sps)

Rnd 4: Sl st (see Pat­tern Notes) in each of next 2 sts, ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next st, [ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next st] 10 times, ch 1, sk last st, join in top of beg ch-3.

Rnd 5: Sl st in each of next 2 sts, sl st in next ch-1 sp, puff V- st (see Spe­cial Stitches) in same ch-1 sp, [ch 1, puff V- st in next ch-1 sp] 10 times, ch 1, join in first puff st. (11 puff V-sts)

Rnd 6: Sl st in first ch-1 sp, sl st in next puff st, ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next puff st, [ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, dc in next puff st, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next puff st] 10 times, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, join in top of beg ch-3. (33 dc, 11 ch-1 sps)

Rnds 7– 9: Rep rnds 4– 6.

Rnds 10 & 11: Rep rnds 4 and 5.

Rnd 12: Ch 3, dc in each rem ch-1 sp and puff st around, join in top of beg ch-3. (44 dc)

Rnd 13: Ch 3, dc in each rem st around, join in top of beg ch-3.

Rnd 14: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, [ch 1, sk next st, dc in each of next 3 sts] 4 times, ch 1, sk next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, [ch 1, sk next st, dc in each of next 3 sts] 4 times, ch 1, sk next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, dc in each of last 3 sts, ch 1, join in top of beg ch-3. (36 dc, 12 ch-1 sps)

Rnd 15: Sl st in each of next 2 sts, ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next st, [ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next st] 11 times, ch 1, sk next st, join in top of beg ch-3.

Rnd 16: Sl st in each of next 2 sts, sl st in next ch-1 sp, puff V- st in same ch-1 sp, [ch 1, puff V- st in next ch-1 sp] 11 times, ch 1, join in first puff st. (12 puff V-sts)

Left Mitt

Rnd 17: Sl st in first ch-1 sp, sl st in next puff st, ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next puff st, [ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, dc in next puff st, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next puff st] 9 times, ch 12 (thumb­hole made), leave rem sts un­worked, join in top of beg ch-3. (30 dc, 9 ch-1 sps, 1 ch-12 sp)

Rnd 18: Sl st in each of next 2 sts, ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next st, [ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next st] 8 times, ch 1, sk next 2 sts, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-12 sp, ch 1, join in top of beg ch-3. (36 dc, 12 ch-1 sps)

Rnd 19: Rep rnd 16.

Rnd 20: Sl st in first ch 1 sp, sl st in next puff st, ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next puff st, [ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, dc in next puff st, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next puff st] 11 times, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, join in top of beg ch-3.

Rnd 21: Rep rnd 15.

Rnd 22: Rep rnd 16.

Rnd 23: Ch 3, dc in each rem ch-1 sp and puff st around, join in top of beg ch-3. (48 dc)

Rnd 24: Ch 3, dc in each rem st around, join in top of beg ch-3.

Rnds 25–28: Now work­ing in con­tin­u­ous rnds, sc in each st around. Place marker in first st to mark progress. (48 sc)

Rnd 29: Sc in first st, shell in next st, [sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, sk next st, shell in next st] 9 times, sk last st, join in first sc, fas­ten off. (10 shells, 10 sc)

Right Mitt

Rnd 17: Sl st in first ch-1 sp, sl st in next puff st, ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next puff st, [ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, dc in next puff st, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next puff st] 3 times, ch 12 (thumb­hole made), sk next (ch-1 sp, puff st, ch-1 sp, puff V- st, ch-1 sp, puff st and ch-1 sp), dc in next puff st, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next puff st, [ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, dc in next puff st, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next puff st] 5 times, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, join in top of beg ch-3. (30 dc, 9 ch-1 sps, 1 ch-12 sp)

Rnd 18: Sl st in next 2 sts, ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next st, [ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next st] twice, ch 1, sk next 2 sts, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-12 sp, dc in next st, [ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next st] 6 times, ch 1, sk next st, join in top of beg ch-3. (36 dc, 12 ch-1 sps)

Rnds 19–29: Rep rnds 19–29 of Left Mitt. At end of last rnd, fas­ten off.

C!

You can make any­thing from ta­ble run­ners to afghans with mo­tifs, and with the proper join, they will be fab­u­lously fun to put to­gether! In­stead of feel­ing dread when it comes time to do your join, why not find a join that you ac­tu­ally en­joy?

In this ar­ti­cle we will be ex­plor­ing four dif­fer­ent tech­niques for join­ing mo­tifs. I've used sim­ple granny square mo­tifs to show you these join­ing tech­niques, but you can use these joins on any kind of mo­tif. Most joins can be easily ad­justed sim­ply by adding more chains. Play­ing with these four joins will give you the knowl­edge and con­fi­dence to use them in your own projects— plus, they are re­ally fun to do!

The first join we will delve into is a join-as- you- go method. There are many vari­a­tions of the join-as- you- go method. Since I am work­ing with the granny square, we will use a granny square join. The fi­nal round on the sec­ond mo­tif is where the join will be made. Our first mo­tif is al­ready a com­pleted square.

To be­gin the granny square join, match up the last row on the first mo­tif with the cor­re­spond­ing row on the sec­ond mo­tif. Start­ing with a cor­ner stitch, work 3 dc in the sec­ond mo­tif, ch 1, slip stitch in the chain space in the cor­ner of the first mo­tif, ch 1, and then 3 dc in same space in the cor­ner of the sec­ond mo­tif (see Photo 1).

Photo 1

Next, slip stitch in the next cor­re­spond­ing chain in first mo­tif, then work 3 dc in next chain space in sec­ond mo­tif. Re­peat up the sides of both mo­tifs un­til all spa­ces are con­nected (see Photo 2).

Work the next cor­ner the same as the first cor­ner by work­ing 3 dc in the chain space in the cor­ner of the sec­ond mo­tif, chain 1, slip stitch in the chain space in

Photo 2

the cor­re­spond­ing cor­ner of your first mo­tif, chain 1, and work 3 dc in same space in the cor­ner of sec­ond mo­tif. Fin­ish by com­plet­ing the square as you would nor­mally work a granny square.

This join is a great way to make a scrappy granny afghan. It al­lows you to see if you like the color com­bi­na­tions as you go along— map­ping out the squares is nec­es­sary. If you hate plan­ning out ev­ery step of your pro­ject ahead of time, this is a won­der­ful join to use. The added

Mo­tifs are one of the most cre­ative and ver­sa­tile items you can make with cro­chet. These units are won­der­ful ways to use up scrap yarn or show­case gor­geous de­signer yarns. The only down­side for most of us is join­ing all those mo­tifs to­gether. Did you know there are mul­ti­ple ways to join them?

You don’t have to sew them to­gether any­more!

bonus is that when you have fin­ished all your squares your join­ing is done!

The next join we will look at is the dou­ble- cro­chet two to­gether join. With its use of dou­ble cro­chet, it cre­ates a very lacy look be­tween your mo­tifs but also in­cludes an in­ter­est­ing tex­tu­ral el­e­ment.

To do this join, work a par­tial dc in any cor­ner of the first mo­tif, leav­ing two loops on your hook, work another par­tial dc in the cor­re­spond­ing space on sec­ond mo­tif, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook (see Photo 3).

Photo 3

You can easily cus­tom­ize this by adding chains be­tween the dou­ble cro­chet joins to make it fit any size mo­tif. I added three chains be­tween each join

This join can also be worked on ei­ther the front or back side of a mo­tif. You get to de­cide if you want the tex­ture on the front to be an in­ter­est­ing fea­ture or have it hid­den on the back for a smoother sur­face. This join works up very quickly!

The flat-braid join is a re­ally lovely join due to its tex­ture and laci­ness. It is a lit­tle more work than our first two joins, but the re­sults are re­ally worth the ex­tra round of cro­chet­ing it calls for. I love us­ing this par­tic­u­lar join on afghans—it can re­ally bring the “Wow!” fac­tor to a de­sign.

This is a join you will work on the right side of your squares. You will want to show off all the lovely com­plex­ity this join has to of­fer!

To be­gin this join, on the first mo­tif be­gin edg­ing by join­ing yarn with a sc in any cor­ner, chain 3 and sc in the same cor­ner. Then, chain 3 and sc in next space, con­tin­u­ing up the side of the mo­tif. When you reach the next cor­ner, you will sc, chain 3 and sc again in the same space. Re­peat this all the way around the mo­tif and then slip stitch to join in the first sc and fas­ten off (see

Photo 5

On the sec­ond mo­tif, join yarn in any cor­ner with a sc. Next, chain 2, re­move hook from the loop, in­sert hook into the cor­re­spond­ing cor­ner of first mo­tif, pick up the dropped loop with your hook, chain 1 and sc in the same cor­ner on sec­ond mo­tif (see Photo 6).

Photo 6

Chain 2, re­move your hook from the loop, in­sert hook in cor­re­spond­ing chain space on the side of first mo­tif, pick up dropped loop with your hook, chain 1 and sc in next chain space on the side of sec­ond mo­tif. Re­peat up the sides of first and sec­ond mo­tifs.

When you have com­pleted the side join you will need to do another cor­ner join. To do this, sc in sec­ond mo­tif's cor­ner chain-2, re­move hook from the

loop, in­sert hook into the cor­re­spond­ing cor­ner of first mo­tif, pick up the dropped loop with hook, chain 1 and sc in same cor­ner on sec­ond mo­tif (see Photo 7).

Photo 7

Re­sume chain­ing 3 and sc around sec­ond mo­tif, be­ing sure to (sc, ch 3, sc) in each re­main­ing cor­ner. Fi­nally, slip stitch to join with first sc and fas­ten off.

As you join more squares, you will con­tinue to add the flat- braid join to how­ever many sides you need to join. The sides that are not joined will al­ways be done in the chain 3, sc fin­ish. You can cus­tom­ize this join by in­creas­ing the num­ber of chains in or­der to make it fit any size mo­tif. Once you get the hang of it, it moves re­ally quickly!

The scal­loped join is another one of my fa­vorites. It's just a vari­a­tion of the flat- braid join. This is the join that is used in my pat­tern Even­tide Ta­ble Mat on page 23. Once you have tried the flat- braid join, the scal­loped join will be a snap!

The first mo­tif and first round in the scal­loped join are worked the same as for the flat- braid join.

You sim­ply sc to join in any cor­ner, chain 3 and sc in the same space.

Next, chain 3 and sc evenly up the side of your first mo­tif. Con­tinue work­ing around the first mo­tif, mak­ing sure to sc, chain 3 and sc in each cor­ner. When you have com­pleted the round, slip stitch to join with the be­gin­ning stitch and fas­ten off.

The sec­ond mo­tif is where the flat­braid join and the scal­loped join part ways. For the scal­loped join on the sec­ond mo­tif we join our yarn with a sc in any cor­ner, chain 1, slip stitch in the cor­re­spond­ing chain 3 cor­ner in our first mo­tif, chain 1 and then sc again in same cor­ner in our sec­ond mo­tif (see Photo 8).

Photo 8

Next, chain 1 and slip stitch in the chain-3 space on the side of the first mo­tif, chain 1 and sc in the next cor­re­spond­ing space in 2nd mo­tif. Re­peat up the sides of both mo­tifs un­til the scal­loped join is com­plete (see Photo 9).

Photo 9

Sc in cor­ner of sec­ond mo­tif, chain 1, slip stitch in the cor­ner chain-3 space in first mo­tif, chain 1 and sc again in cor­ner of sec­ond mo­tif (see Photo 10).

Photo 10

As you join more squares, you will con­tinue to add the scal­loped join to how­ever many sides you need to join. The sides that are not joined will al­ways be done with the chain 3, sc fin­ish.

There are many other joins, such as the slip- stitch join, the sin­gle cro­chet with chain join and the flat join, just to name a few. Why not find sev­eral you love and make join­ing your fa­vorite part of your pro­ject?

C!

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